Sevilla ➜ Santiponce: 9.6km
Ascent: 96m Descent: -89m
The Vía begins outside the main door of the cathedral, turn right to follow the tram tracks along Avenida de la Constitución, then, at the corner of the cathedral turn left on to Calle García de Vinuesa, then first right on to Calle Jimios. This becomes Calle Zaragoza, which you follow through various twists and turns until it intersects with Puerta de Triana, where you'll see Café de Indias on your left. Now turn left and continue straight to cross Triana Bridge (Puente de Isabel II). Once across the river turn right after the Mercado de Triana along Calle San Jorge and Calle de Castilla (where there's a Día supermarket which opens at 09:30). After a few hundred metres you'll come to a modern square where there's a monument to the Vía de la Plata marking 1000km to Santiago (it’s a bit late now to start wondering if what you’re doing is a good idea). Walk up the steps to the right which bring you to a main road. Walk anticlockwise around the roundabout, crossing two roads (traffic is dangerous here) then turning right on to a footpath and left down to a large, run-down carpark where you veer right and then left to cross the narrow bridge across the main branch of the Guadalquivir. This route is marked with yellow arrows but they're easy to miss in the city. Once outside the city they become easier to spot.
3.3km from the cathedral, just after crossing the narrow bridge over the main branch of the Guadalquivir, you have the option to continue straight to pass through the suburb of Camas, or to go right along the bank of the river (muddy after wet weather) and bypass Camas. Don't let the grimness of this first part get you down, things improve once you're out of the city.
It's 6km to Santiponce, from the point where the routes divide regardless which way you go.
Walk along the banks of the river for 1.3km then follow a lane as it veers left. In 1.5km you'll pass under an elevated motorway then continue straight under railway tracks and another motorway, then right to join a main road which you follow to the left to a roundabout where you rejoin the left route and turn right towards Santiponce. This route passes through some run down, deserted areas and not everyone will feel comfortable walking it on their own. You may encounter cute donkeys and unfortunately also loose dogs.
1.5km to Camas from where the routes divide. Shops, cafés, bank, pharmacy. Cafétería Mas on the Camino on the right on Calle José Payán opens at 07:30 every day.
In Camas turn right at the roundabout with the fountain in the middle on to Calle José Payán and follow this until you come to the Church of Santa Maria de Gracia where you take the street to its left, also called Santa Maria de Gracia. From here the Camino continues straight along the side of a busy main road through suburbs and industrial areas, through two roundabouts until after 3.3km at a roundabout you come to where the two routes rejoin.
Santiponce ➜ Guillena: 12.8km
Ascent: 117m Descent: -120m
Continue north along the main road through Santiponce, after 2.2km turn right at a roundabout and under the motorway and then veer left where the Camino leaves the road and continues (at last) on a quite lane through fields. There's a stream you need to ford which may be difficult after rain. In 2019 the local Amigos put a steel beam across the stream just downstream of the ford however it won't be safe to use if the water is flowing quickly.
Occasionally after prolonged heavy rain this stream can be badly flooded. Fortunately there is an alternative route which branches left 380m before the stream (sometimes there is a temporary signpost here but since it's the only possible left turn on a long straight road it would be hard to miss). Follow this road passing a farmhouse on your right then passing under the motorway, veer left and right to join a main road. Here you turn right and follow the road (veering right) all the way to Guillena. This detour adds about 3km to the day's walk (better than a muddy drenching or worse!)
Before Guillena (on the normal route) the yellow arrows direct you to turn sharp left towards the main road, bringing you past the private albergue, Albergue Luz del Camino. It is possible to go right at this point but it will mean fording another stream which can be difficult and muddy. The description of the route through Guillena is based on the assumption that you turned left.Guillena
Guillena ➜ Castilblanco de los Arroyos: 18.2km
Ascent: 469m Descent: -158m
Leaving town continue past the municipal albergue on Avenida de la Vega and then first right down a road to a ford which you cross (if the water's too high there's a bridge to your left) and then up the slope to the right then veering left, then 1.5km to a roundabout where you veer left through an industrial area and eventually into open country.
Just before Castilblanco the Camino veers left at a roundabout and follows Avenida España through town. Continue straight at this roundabout for the municipal albergue.Castilblanco de los Arroyos
Castilblanco de los Arroyos ➜ Almadén de la Plata: 28.5km
Ascent: 615m Descent: -480m
You can either follow the Camino or the main road through Castilblanco. The Camino then continues north along the main road towards Almadén. This road isn't usually busy.
There are no facilities of any sort on this stage and you should not be wandering out of Castilblanco without enough food and water to see you through to the end.
Continue on the road (SE-5405) for 16km until you come to a place known as Finca el Berrocal where you will see arrows pointing through a gate on the right into the Parque Natural Sierra Norte. From here it's unpaved paths to Almadén. If the main gate is closed there's another pedestrian gate to the right which may be open (it is not visible from the road). Keep some high-energy food or drink in reserve for the last couple of kilometres where there's a steep hill which ascends abruptly about 100m. Alternatively you can follow the road all the way to Almadén, it's slightly longer but an easier climb.Almadén de la Plata
Almadén de la Plata ➜ El Real de la Jara: 13.9km
Ascent: 360m Descent: -346m
The Camino is abundantly (if not always clearly) signposted through Almadén with signs and yellow arrows. If in doubt when leaving town aim for the bull ring on the hill to the north, the Camino passes it to its left.El Real de la Jara
El Real de la Jara ➜ Monesterio: 20.0km
Ascent: 563m Descent: -278m
1.3km you cross a stream which marks the border with Extremadura.
10.4km from the stream to the A-66 motorway where there is a 24 hour motorway service station, a shop with a good selection of regional products, an ATM, and Hotel Leo which has luxurious singles from 40€, café / restaurant. Tel 924 517 048. Be careful crossing the various roads here. Yellow arrows are a bit scarce, at the roundabout take the road under the motorway signposted Monesterio.Monesterio
Monesterio ➜ Fuente de Cantos: 21.0km
Ascent: 328m Descent: -496m
Some misleading waymarkings on this stretch - follow the yellow arrows in preference to any 'official' markings (ie. the metal boxes), however there are places where the yellow arrows are scarce in which case you'll have to rely on the metal boxes. If you can't find any markings remember that you need to head north towards Fuente de Cantos which is intermittently visible on the horizon way before you get there.Fuente de Cantos
Fuente de Cantos ➜ Calzadilla de los Barros: 6.3km
Ascent: 65m Descent: -91m
Calzadilla de los Barros ➜ Zafra: 18.3km
Ascent: 208m Descent: -256m
2.4km after Calzadilla, after reaching the main road, the Camino turns left. There is an alternative left turn 500m before this one but it is frequently flooded after rain (not shown on the map).
14.2km to Puebla de Sancho Pérez
Puebla de Sancho Pérez: Shops, cafés, banks, all on the Camino. However they take their siesta very seriously. Café Abadia, left at the church, is usually open. Hostal el Monte, has been recently recommended, it's on Calle San Antonio, signposted to the right 420m. Singles 22€, doubles 36€. They also have a restaurant which is also reported good. Tel 670 222 267. Albergue La Hermita is reported closed.
4km to Zafra.
Between here and Zafra there used to be two routes you could chose from however recently the right route (through the railway station) has been reported closed.
The Camino to Zafra goes along the side of a road for 2km before it forks left for a while and rejoins the main road near Albergue Van Gogh. (You can also ignore the left fork and continue along the road all the way.)Zafra
Zafra ➜ Los Santos de Maimona: 4.4km
Ascent: 122m Descent: -101m
From the Amigos albergue the Camino runs straight up Avenida de la Estación, diagonally across Plaza España then down pedestrianised Calle Sevilla, to the centre of town at Plaza Grande, which it crosses on to Calle Tetuán before turning right on to Calle Conde de la Corte and then veering left and, close to the municipal albergue, right on to Calle Ancha then Calle San Francisco, straight across a roundabout towards a tower, la Torre de San Francisco, and from there into open country.Los Santos de Maimona
Los Santos de Maimona ➜ La Almazara: 8.4km
Ascent: 110m Descent: -160m
The Camino arrives in front of the church on Plaza España, and then passes to its left. Thanks to the local Amigos for their massive yellow arrows!
Albergue La Almazara is 900m off the Camino to the right. From there you can follow an alternative route, which avoids walking on the main road, and rejoins the main Camino before Villafranca. The distance is about the same.La Almazara (turnoff)
La Almazara ➜ Villafranca de los Barros: 6.9km
Ascent: 36m Descent: -105m
Villafranca de los Barros ➜ Torremejía: 27.6km
Ascent: 144m Descent: -255m
Some dead-straight Roman road walking on this part.
If this stage is too long for you there is the option to detour to Almendralejo. To get there turn left on a good quality unpaved road about 1km after the beginning of the long straight stretch. Almendralejo has all facilities. Good Menú del Día in Cafétería Andana, on Calle San Blas. For a shorter route from here to Torremejía walk north along the main road, when you come to the motorway use the bridge to get to the other side and follow the unpaved road which runs parallel to the motorway on the right. Good reports of Hotel Los Angeles, on Calle Macarena. Singles from €35, doubles 45€. Website www.hlangelesalmendralejo.com Tel 924 670 319Torremejía
Torremejía ➜ Mérida: 15.4km
Ascent: 94m Descent: -186m
The continues on or near the main road for 6.6km north of Torremejía until a sign indicates to join a path on the right. From here it's a more-or-less straight run into Mérida.Mérida
Mérida ➜ El Carrascalejo: 13.8km
Ascent: 215m Descent: -134m
6.1km to Proserpina, cafés. Pass straight through a roundabout and take a left fork signposted as a cul-de-sac. Then follow a footpath which skirts the reservoir until it rejoins the road and continues north.
After Proserpina the Camino follows a small road for 4km until, at a point clearly marked with yellow arrows on a tree, it goes left on to a sandy lane, just before the road turns right over a bridge. The Camino then continues on unpaved lanes until El Carrascalejo.El Carrascalejo
El Carrascalejo ➜ Aljucén: 2.6km
Ascent: 40m Descent: -64m
Aljucén ➜ Alcuéscar: 19.4km
Ascent: 304m Descent: -120m
Leaving Aljucén follow the main street (Calle Mayor) north for 330m until the Camino takes a right turn on to another road which it follows for 1km until it joins a bigger road for 400m before turning right on to an unpaved lane.
14.1km from leaving the road to the right turnoff to the Basilica de Santa Lucía del Trampal.
If you're interested in architecture and historic sights you may enjoy the detour to the Basilica de Santa Lucía del Trampal. It's a 7th century church in Visigothic style, one of the few remaining. It's 4km off the Camino from this point. From the basilica you can either retrace your steps back to this point or continue 4.5km along quiet roads to Alcuéscar.
If your destination is Albergue Turistico Los Olivos then 700m past the turnoff for the Basilica you'll see a sign pointing LEFT towards Puerto de la Herrerias, follow this and it brings you there in 1.3km. At this point the Camino goes RIGHT bringing you directly to Alcuéscar in 2.8km.Alcuéscar
Alcuéscar ➜ Aldea del Cano: 15.1km
Ascent: 69m Descent: -126m
The Camino turns sharp left just after the monastery.
8km to Casas de Don Antonio, the Camino bypasses the village.
Casas de Don Antonio. There's a café in the Centro Social (behind the Ayuntamiento) which also sells bread, and a pharmacy nearby.
7km to Aldea del Cano, the Camino bypasses the village which is a little to the right.Aldea del Cano
Aldea del Cano ➜ Valdesalor: 11.5km
Ascent: 96m Descent: -101m
Valdesalor ➜ Cáceres: 11.7km
Ascent: 169m Descent: -113m
From Valdesalor continue north on the right side of the main road. Waymarking isn't great here but basically, the Camino meanders parallel to this road for 5.4km then it heads off into open country before arriving into the suburbs of Cáceres.Cáceres
Cáceres ➜ Casar de Cáceres: 12.4km
Ascent: 164m Descent: -242m
The Camino turns right at Plaza San Francisco and enters the walled old city from the east. At the cathedral it turns sharp right. If you want to go to Plaza Mayor and the part of the city with cafés, shops, etc. then continue straight here along Calle Arco de la Estrella. After the cathedral the Camino leaves the old city on to Plazuela de Santiago where we pass Iglesia de Santiago and veer left and continues north out of the city along Calle de Zapataría, passing to the left of the bullring, from where you can easily pick up the waymarkings.
For 2.5km between here and Casar de Cáceres the Camino runs along the side of a busy main road - dangerous, especially in the dark.Casar de Cáceres
Casar de Cáceres ➜ Cañaveral: 33.0km
Ascent: 522m Descent: -533m
Continue north along the main street to leave town. After 1.9km, where there's a small round building with a pointed roof, take the right fork here.
The footbridge for pilgrims over the AVE tracks is now open so the Camino has returned to its old route down to the reservoir.
21km to the turnoff for the albergue at Embalse de Alcántara. If you're continuing to Cañaveral, after the second bridge leave the road and follow a steep path up to the right. To get to the albergue at Embalse de Alcántara stay on the road. This albergue has been closed since 2021, as of early 2023 there is no news of when it will reopening. Please see updates.
The guest house on the main road, Alcántara, Pesca, Evasión, has single rooms for 25€ and doubles for 40€, breakfast included. However, they prefer dealing with groups and may be reluctant to open for individuals. Tel 927 090 510. Website www.alcantarapescaevasion.com
ALTERNATIVE: From Embalse you can continue on the road (N-630) all the way to Cañaveral (slightly shorter).Cañaveral
Cañaveral ➜ Grimaldo: 8.0km
Ascent: 216m Descent: -148m
There is some confusion about the route immediately after Cañaveral. Following the main road north until you see yellow arrows directing you on to a lane on the left. (There are signs for other hiking routes around here 'Caminos Naturales' - do not be tempted to follow them!) This ascend gently at first and then more steeply before descending to a road which you cross and veer right to pass through the car park of a strip joint (El Puerto, does not give pilgrim discounts and in any case doesn’t open until long after your bedtime), then veering left to follow the yellow arrows on a path through a wood.
Over the following stages there are several villages which are described as (turnoff). These are villages which have a pilgrim albergue but which are not on the actual route of the Camino. The distances given is the distance to the point on the Camino where you turn off to get to the village in question, not the actual distance to the village. The distance of the village from the Camino is given in the route description (see below for Grimaldo). Getting back to the Camino from one of these villages is described on the detailed information for the village.
The village of Grimaldo is 650m off the Camino to the right at an abundantly signposted junction.Grimaldo (turnoff)
Grimaldo ➜ Ríolobos: 7.8km
Ascent: 109m Descent: -110m
The village of Ríolobos is 4km off the Camino to the left. The place where your turn off is clearly signposted.Ríolobos (turnoff)
Ríolobos ➜ Galisteo: 11.4km
Ascent: 131m Descent: -273m
4km after the turnoff for Ríolobos you cross a canal and then turn right on to a road which you follow for a short distance until the Camino goes left on to a lane.
5.7km to the turnoff for San Gil. The village of San Gil is 2.4km off the Camino, it has a shop, cafés and a pharmacy.
San Gil. Bar Las Pizarras does good tapas and meals, it is on the main road at the end of the village. San Gil also has a municipal albergue which has been closed since before Covid. From San Gil you can continue on an alternative route to Carcaboso completely bypassing Galisteo. Like the other route it's all road walking.Galisteo
Galisteo ➜ Carcaboso: 11.1km
Ascent: 105m Descent: -118m
From Cafétería Las Picotas walk up the hill towards the walled town and continue walking with the town walls to your right to the other side of the old town from where you should be able to pick up the waymarkings which lead steeply downhill and across an old bridge over the Río Jerte, straight through a roundabout, under the motorway and then right at another roundabout to follow the paved road north towards Carcaboso.
6km Aldehuala del Jerte. Café, shops.Carcaboso
Carcaboso ➜ Oliva de Plasencia: 12.0km
Ascent: 268m Descent: -123m
Leaving Carcaboso pay careful attention to waymarkings at the various road junctions. 1.3km from the village there is a point where previously there were two routes which divided here for about 2km. Nowadays the Camino continues straight at this point.
Between Carcaboso and Aldeanueva del Camino things are a bit confusing because the available accommodation is all some distance from the Camino. Your options if you start from Carcaboso are basically the following. (1) Walk 18.1km to Oliva de Plasencia where there is an albergue and a guest house. (2) Walk 18.6km to Cáparra and arrange to be picked up there by one or other of the hotels. (3) Walk through Cáparra then follow the road to Hostal El Avión for a total of 23.6km. (4) Walk through Cáparra and then take the road to Hostal Asturias or Hotel Jarilla for a total of 29.2km.
12.1km to Dehesa Ventaquemada, turnoff for Oliva de Placencia
The village of Oliva de Plasencia is 6km off the Camino to the right along a sometimes busy road.Oliva de Plasencia (turnoff)
Oliva de Plasencia ➜ Aldeanueva del Camino: 27.6km
Ascent: 439m Descent: -331m
6.5km to Cáparra Roman City.
Hostal El Avión is in Villar de Plasencia, 5km off the Camino from Cáparra along a quiet road (CC-11.2). They may provide a pick-up service from Cáparra. Singles 40€, doubles 60€. Tel 652 779 448. To get back to the Camino from Hostal El Avión either retrace your steps back to Cáparra or walk north along the Vía Verde.
The settlement which we know as the Roman city of Cáparra probably has pre-Roman roots. It was possibly founded by the Vetons, a (probably) Celtic tribe who inhabited this region before the Roman conquest. The Arch of Cáparra marked the centre of the city and is today the best preserved remnant of the city, it was erected in the 1st century, during the Flavian dynasty. At the visitors centre in Cáparra there are public toilets and vending machines for snacks and drinks (you will need coins and the building isn't always open). The visitors centre is 300m from the Camino, turn right at the arch itself or shortly after it.
On the Camino after Cáparra there are several rivers which you cross using stepping-stones and which may be extremely difficult to cross during periods of wet weather. Please ask advice locally and don't attempt dangerous river crossings - especially if you're on your own. If it has been raining a lot your best bet may be to go to Oliva de Plasencia and follow the minor road north from there until Hostal El Avión and follow the Vía Verde (see below) from there.
There is now a Vía Verde (combined cycling and walking track build along the route of an old train line) which starts in Plasencia and finishes past Puerto de Béjar. It passes beside Hostal el Avión, Hostal Asturia and Hotel Jarilla before taking a detour through Hervás and continuing from there to Aldeanueva del Camino, Baños de Montemayor and Puerto de Béjar. If you stay in one of the off-Camino hotels this can be an alternative way to rejoin the Camino, without involving any backtracking. It's also a good alternative if it's been raining a lot.
The Vía Verde runs right very close to all three hotels. It is literally right beside Hostal El Avión. To get to it from Hostal Asturia cross the road and walk through the enormous lorry park and pass to the left of some buildings. To get to it from Hotel Jarilla, from the rear of the hotel cross about 100m of open ground. NOTE: there a point 2km north of Hotel Jarilla where the Vía Verde intercepts a route which brings you straight back to the Camino before Aldeanueva, avoiding the detour to Hervás. The Vía Verde passes through the outskirts of these towns, not the centres.
8.4km after Cáparra, turn off for Hostal Asturias and Hotel Jarilla. Where the Camino runs along the side of a straight road you'll see yellow writing pointing right. Both accommodations are 2.2km from this point on the other side of the motorway.
Hotel Jarilla, across the road to your left. Singles 30€, doubles 50€. Café / restaurant with good food. Website www.hoteljarilla.com Tel 927 477 040
Hostal Asturias has singles 32€, doubles 60€, a café / restaurant. They may pick up from Cáparra on request. Under new management, recent negative reports. Tel 927 477 057 or 628 119 826.
Please note: the hotels which pick pilgrims up from the Camino do so as a courtesy to pilgrims, they are not in any way obliged to bring you back to the Camino the next morning.
Hervás is a beautiful hill-top town with one of the best-preserved Jewish quarters in Spain. Well worth a visit. It has no pilgrim accommodation.
Meanwhile, back on the Camino: if you do not turnoff for Hostal Asturias, in 4.9km you will pass underneath the motorway then immediately see signs pointing left to ford a river. This river is often too big to ford, in which case you should cross the river on the bridge on your right and continue on the road until you rejoin the Camino. You will pass under the motorway three more times before Aldeaneuva.Aldeanueva del Camino
Aldeanueva del Camino ➜ Baños de Montemayor: 9.5km
Ascent: 233m Descent: -47m
Follow the Camino north through the village to where it joins the main road, at a roundabout (motorway service station café open 24h, to your left), cross over the motorway and veer left. The Camino to Baños is along the side of the road, although there are some places where you can walk a little off the road. About 2km out there's a bollard which urges you to veer right on to a lane, ignore it and stay on the road.
5.1km café.Baños de Montemayor
Baños de Montemayor ➜ Puente de Béjar: 3.2km
Ascent: 199m Descent: -18m
Turn sharp left after the Ayuntamiento and follow the Camino as it winds its way through the village before joining the Roman road up the side of the valley towards the pass.
3km with a 200m ascent to Puerto de Béjar. Entering Castilla y León. Shortly after comes Peñacaballera, café and a petrol station with a small shop.
Shortly after the petrol station the Camino turns left away from the road. The pilgrim albergue at Puente de Béjar is to the right at this point.Puente de Béjar
Puente de Béjar ➜ Calzada de Béjar: 9.4km
Ascent: 207m Descent: -312m
Beautiful walking through rolling hills to...Calzada de Béjar
Calzada de Béjar ➜ Valverde de Valdelacasa: 8.7km
Ascent: 74m Descent: -64m
Valverde de Valdelacasa ➜ Fuenterroble de Salvatierra: 12.0km
Ascent: 255m Descent: -103m
3.6km to Valdecasa, café which does food in the Centro de Día, turn right at the main road, it's about 300m on the right.
2km after Valdecasa there is a junction with a lot of confusing yellow arrows. Basically you have two options, either continue on the road or take the lane which goes left at a right angle, this seems to be the 'official' Camino. Both routes bring you to Fuenteroble in approximately the same distance.Fuenterroble de Salvatierra
RIGHT ROUTE: Fuenterroble de Salvatierra ➜ Pedrosillo de los Aires: 18.4km
Ascent: 271m Descent: -265m
LEFT ROUTE: Fuenterroble de Salvatierra ➜ San Pedro de Rozados: 28.3km
Ascent: 454m Descent: -429m
There are two possible routes after Fuenterroble. They divide 12km after Fuenterroble at a gate / cattle grid with a sign which says Dueña de Abajo. The two routes rejoin in the village of Morille.
The RIGHT ROUTE passes through Pedrosillo (albergue, cafés, shop) and has a total distance (Fuenterroble to Morille) of 29.9km.
The LEFT ROUTE passes through San Pedro de Rozados (albergue, café) and has a total distance (Fuenterroble to Morille) of 32.3km.
From where the route divides to Pedrosilla is 6.5km.Pedrosillo de los Aires
Pedrosillo de los Aires ➜ Morille: 11.5km
Ascent: 172m Descent: -192m
5.2km to Monterrubio de la Sierra.
6.3km to Morille.
From where the routes divide to San Pedro is 16.8km.
Walk uphill along an unpaved path, passing to the right of the windmills on the top of Pico de la Dueña (1,145m, highest point on the Camino so far). Then steeply downhill on another rough path before joining a road.
San Pedro de Rozados is a little off the Camino to the left. Follow the road if you wish to continue to Morille.San Pedro de Rozados
San Pedro de Rozados ➜ Morille: 3.9km
Ascent: 18m Descent: -57m
Morille ➜ Salamanca: 19.6km
Ascent: 235m Descent: -372m
10km to Miranda de Azán, which is 250m to the right of the Camino. Cafés which all open about 10:00. However, no pilgrim albergue (despite the rumours!)
9.5km to Salamanca
Approaching the city you'll pass under a road on to an urban street, past a roundabout and into a park where you turn right and walk with a stream on your left. You will see a yellow arrow telling you to cross a footbridge to the right, ignore it and continue to follow other yellow arrows with the stream on your left through a tunnel under a railway line, past a petrol station and straight along a street until you see the Roman bridge over the river Duero which you'll cross to the city proper.
Once over the bridge, cross the road and continue right uphill to the point where the right turn to the municipal albergue is indicated with a metal Camino sign set into the ground with the letter 'A' for 'Albergue'.Salamanca
Salamanca ➜ Calzada de Valdunciel: 16.1km
Ascent: 192m Descent: -195m
Leaving Salamanca there are almost no waymarkings of any description. Luckily it's mostly straight all the way. From Plaza Mayor continue north along Calle de Zamora, then straight over a roundabout on to Paseo Torres Vilarroel, where there's a small shop / bakery that opens at 07:00, continuing straight to another roundabout where you veer left on to Avenida de Borgoña, then straight through another roundabout by a large Carrefour supermarket. Here the Camino crosses to the right side of the road and (just when you've abandoned all hope) Camino waymarkings appear again!
7km to Aldeaseca de la Almuña, café, turn left at a small park with a fountain (Plaza Mayor) and walk 100m. Small supermarket a little further on the right. The Camino crosses to the right side of the main road just after the village and then crosses it again to arrive to...
4.8km to Castellanos de Villiquera, café, shop by the church, pharmacy.Calzada de Valdunciel
Calzada de Valdunciel ➜ El Cubo de Tierra del Vino: 20.2km
Ascent: 251m Descent: -210m
5.2km cross under the motorway. After rain it may be necessary to follow a short detour to avoid getting your feet wet. It's clearly waymarked.El Cubo de Tierra del Vino
El Cubo de Tierra del Vino ➜ Villanueva de Campeán: 13.7km
Ascent: 129m Descent: -208m
Continue down El Cubo's main street, veer right at the church, cross the river and then take a left.Villanueva de Campeán
Villanueva de Campeán ➜ Zamora: 18.4km
Ascent: 123m Descent: -246m
4km to the turnoff for San Marcial which is 1km off the Camino, straight ahead where the Camino turns sharp right, where Bar el Cruce, on the main road does food, opens 10:00 or 09:30 at weekends. There's also a small supermarket. From there you can rejoin the Camino by following the main road north for 1.8km. The detour works out at about the same distance as following the Camino.
100m before where the Camino joins the main road is the right turn for El Perdigón, 1km off the Camino, where Hostal Rural El Perdigón has been recommended. Website www.hotelruralelperdigon.com Tel 679 495 499Zamora
Zamora ➜ Montamarta: 18.7km
Ascent: 231m Descent: -178m
The Camino turns left and crosses Plaza Mayor diagonally and then goes down Calle de las Costanillas, veering left at the bottom on to Calle de la Feria then it continues straight across a roundabout. From there it's straight ahead on to Calle Morana then veering left on to Carretera Hiniesta. Then continue straight through another roundabout and walk on the right until the Camino leaves the road and continues on a lane. NB. Another Camino goes west from here towards Portugal, new signposting marks the spot where the paths divide, be careful not to get the routes confused. Just before Roales del Pan there is a place where one sign tells you to go straight and another says right, go RIGHT!
7km to Roales del Pan, cafés and a small Coviran supermarket, follow the signs for Bar T&B. The Municipal albergue is closed, no plans to reopen it. After Roales you will begin to encounter the northern AVE route. A bridge has been built over the new tracks so no special detours are needed.Montamarta
Montamarta ➜ Fontanillas de Castro: 12.6km
Ascent: 153m Descent: -125m
When the reservoir is in flood you'll have to cross the road bridge and turn left towards a small church.
4.1km at this point the route of the Camino has been recently changed. Instead of going straight ahead it turns right and crosses the motorway and then continues north. Continue straight here if you wish to follow the N-631 which will bring you directly to Tábara in approximately 25km, bypassing Fontanillas, Riego and Granja. It's reported to be road-side walking but with light traffic and through pretty countryside.Fontanillas de Castro
Fontanillas de Castro ➜ Granja de Moreruela: 10.3km
Ascent: 83m Descent: -90m
3.7km to Riego del Camino
Community café called La Biblioteca on Calle las Escuelas. Bar Pepé has closed.
6.7km to Granja de MoreruelaGranja de Moreruela
Granja de Moreruela ➜ Tábara: 25.3km
Ascent: 316m Descent: -291m
Behind the church is a sign which marks the point where the Camino Sanabrés divides left from the Vía de la Plata to follow a course through southern Galicia to Santiago.
The Camino Sanabrés
6.7km from Granja you will cross a bridge called Puente Quintos over the river Esla. Immediately after the bridge the Camino turns left and follows the river for 1.1km before turning right just before the brow of a hill (where there is a good view of the river to the south) and passes to the left of a ruined farmhouse and then continues on unpaved roads to Faramontanos (care required on some parts near the river). After the bridge it is also possible to walk on the (fairly quiet) road all the way to Faramontanos.
11.5km from the bridge to Faramontanos de Tábara, shop, cafés and a pharmacy, all on or near the Camino. Bar Nemesio, on the Camino, does good food including a pilgrim menu.
The albergue La Casa Azul y Amarilla is currently only operating in summer. Please call ahead to check availability. Private, 4 beds, donativo, tel 692 643 223.
6.8km to Tábara. Approaching and leaving Tábara you will encounter the AVE (high-speed train) tracks however this does not interfere with the Camino route.
The Camino doesn't actually enter Tábara. Just before you arrive in Tábara you'll see arrows pointing right and the church up to your left. The arrows pointing right are the Camino leaving Tábara. If you want to go to the village, head for the church.Tábara
RIGHT ROUTE: Tábara ➜ Santa Marta de Tera: 23.0km
Ascent: 266m Descent: -266m
LEFT ROUTE: Tábara ➜ Villanueva de las Peras: 14.0km
Ascent: 167m Descent: -156m
10.2km after Tábara you have the choice of two routes. The right route goes through Bercianos de Valverde. The left route goes through Villanueva de las Peras. The distances given for both routes are from divide to rejoin.
4.3km to Bercianos de Valverde from the point where the routes divide, no facilities. From there to Santa Croya de Tera is 8.4km.
3.8km to Villanueva de las Peras from the point where the routes divide.Villanueva de las Peras
Villanueva de las Peras ➜ Santa Marta de Tera: 9.4km
Ascent: 86m Descent: -96m
9.4km to Santa Croya de Tera from Villanueva de las Peras.
Santa Croya de Tera, shops and a café. If you need to shop do it here, in Santa Marta de Tera there is nothing.
The Camino goes immediately left after crossing the bridge to Santa Marta de Tera (although the yellow arrows had been repainted to send pilgrims through the village).Santa Marta de Tera
Santa Marta de Tera ➜ Calzadilla de Tera: 11.1km
Ascent: 82m Descent: -64m
5.8km after Santa Marta the Camino comes to a main road at a gravel quarry. Turn left here and cross the bridge over the Río Tera. The Camino to Calzadilla continues to the right after the bridge. Shortly before Calzadilla there is a set of confusing arrows pointing to the right. Ignore them and continue straight over the canal until you reach a paved road.Calzadilla de Tera
Calzadilla de Tera ➜ Olleros de Tera: 1.9km
Ascent: 12m Descent: -17m
Be careful because there is a lot of confusing waymarking in this area. You should follow a canal to Olleros. Whichever arrows you find in Calzadilla should being you to this canal.Olleros de Tera
Olleros de Tera ➜ Villar de Farfón: 7.9km
Ascent: 121m Descent: -64m
Continue through the village, cross a main road on to another road, pass to the left of a concrete structure and walk towards a church 1.4km in the distance. From this church you'll walk through open country for 2.6km before arriving at a dam, Embalse de Agavanzal. Approaching the dam there is a sign on the road indicating bicycles to go left (BICIS), this is a slightly easier but longer alternative to the walking route which involves a bit of scrambling around in the mud after wet weather.
Cross the dam and turn immediately left.Villar de Farfón
Villar de Farfón ➜ Rionegro del Puente: 6.1km
Ascent: 77m Descent: -82m
Rionegro del Puente ➜ Mombuey: 9.0km
Ascent: 132m Descent: -31m
3.6km, roadside café, El Empalme, 260m along a minor road to the left of the Camino, open from 09:00, closed Mondays.Mombuey
Mombuey ➜ Asturianos: 16.9km
Ascent: 266m Descent: -193m
After Mombuey the Camino follows close to the main road for 2.2km before crossing the motorway. Watch out for rabbits and deer.
5km from Mombuey to Valdemerilla.
3.5km to Cernadilla. This municipal albergue is reported to be closed.
1.9km to San Salvador de Palazuelo. This municipal albergue is reported to be closed.
Be careful not to miss the left turn leaving Entrepeñas.
Azul Sanabria, to the left of the Camino. Can accommodate groups of three: one person 35€, two persons 50€, three persons 60€. The same people own Las Peñas del Corredor with singles 25€, doubles 40€. Kitchen. Open March to November. Tel 676 653 466Asturianos
Asturianos ➜ Puebla de Sanabria: 14.5km
Ascent: 199m Descent: -261m
Off-road sections between Asturianos and Puebla de Sanabria may be muddy and flooded after rain.
3km to Palacios de Sanabria, cafés and pharmacy. Bar Mirador, on the main road, is usually open for breakfast. To rejoin the Camino cross the main road from Bar Mirador and veer left uphill.
2.6km to Remesal.
2.9km to Otero de Sanabria.
2.5km to Triufé.
3.5km to Puebla de Sanabria.Puebla de Sanabria
Puebla de Sanabria ➜ Requejo de Sanabria: 12.3km
Ascent: 214m Descent: -119m
The Camino through Puebla follows the main road and turns right immediately after crossing the bridge. Follow this road around the old town until it crosses another bridge, now continue straight for 1km until the Camino turns abruptly left and continues on a track beside a river. NOTE: following the road (N-525) is a good alternative, the official Camino is poorly waymarked and may be flooded after rain.
9.8km to Terroso from Puebla de Sanabria. This village lies on a long (but scenic) meander which can be avoided by following the road.Requejo de Sanabria
Requejo de Sanabria ➜ Lubián: 18.9km
Ascent: 628m Descent: -599m
The construction of the high-speed train from Madrid to Galicia is completed and the long years of detours to the route of the Camino in this area are finished. The good news is that the new route is off-road all the way to Padornelo. The bad news is that it's 1.2km longer than if you follow the road (N-525).
Follow the Camino through Requejo and continue straight past the cemetery and up the river valley towards the pass. After 4.3km you will come to a clearing in the forest which was a staging area during construction of the AVE. 800m further on you'll see a ruined building ahead of you with an old painted sign indicating two possible Camino routes to the right and left. Ignore this, both of these routes are impassible. Instead turn sharp right (almost doubling back on yourself) up a construction road which zigzags its way up to beside the main road in 1.6km
Continue with the main road to your right. You will pass underneath several flyovers and zigzag several times before reaching the pass at A Canda in 2.7km, where there is a monument. The altitude here is 1,365m and it is the highest point of the Camino Sanabrés and the Vía de la Plata. (Beware of some contradictory signs here indicating an alternative route) From the monument continue downhill to cross the motorway again over a flyover. Then follow the road into Padornelo.
1.5km to Padornelo from the pass. Padornelo has a café, Bar Silva.
400m after Padornelo, Hotel Padornelo has a café which does good tapas and a good restaurant. Singles 30€, doubles 40€, triples 50€. Website www.hotelpadornelo.com Tel 652 077 319
Folow the main road after Padornelo for 2.7km until on the left you see the a path leading downhill. This brings you to Aciberos in 700m. Parts of this path are prone to flooding so after rain it may be better to remain on the main road for another 700m and follow the small road down to Aciberos.
3.4km from Aciberos to Lubián.Lubián
Lubián ➜ A Gudiña: 24.6km
Ascent: 743m Descent: -786m
From the turnoff to the Santuario de La Tuiza (signposted), follow the paved road down to the bridge, past the recreation / sports area, and pass under the motorway. The Camino continues past the Sanctuary and then the 320m climb to Portela de la Canda begins.
Parts of this stretch can be flooded after rain. It is possible to walk on the road: leaving Lubián follow the ZA-106 west for about 9km until it intersects with the Camino at Portela de la Canda, a few hundred metres after where the motorway enters a tunnel. Due to the meandering routes the road follows walking on the ZA-106 to this point would be about 9km compared to 6.7km on the Camino.
6.9km from Lubián to the pass, Portela de la Canda, at altitude 1,260m.
Welcome to Galicia!
1.5km from the pass to A Canda.
3.3km to Vilavella
Vilavella has two cafés, both a little off the Camino, the food in Bar ON has been recommended. Accommodation Hostal Porta Galega, see under Lubián.
Vilavella: Hostal Porta Galega is about 500m off the Camino to the right on the main road near Vilavella. Singles from 20€. Café and a good restaurant with local specialities. Website www.hostalportagalega.es Tel 988 425 593
3.5km to O Pereiro.
5.2km to O Cañizo.
4km to...A Gudiña
A Gudiña ➜ Campobecerros: 20.2km
Ascent: 514m Descent: -597m
The Camino veers right off the main road on to Rúa Maior. After about 200m is the divide for the Laza and longer and little-frequented Verín routes. Only the Laza route is described here. This route is mostly along a quiet road with nice scenery (in clear weather, which is rare).
7.7km to A Venda Da Teresa.
2.3km to A Venda Da Capela.
3.2km to A Venda Do Bolaño.
A steep 248m descent to Campobecerros.Campobecerros
Campobecerros ➜ As Eiras: 8.4km
Ascent: 230m Descent: -362m
3.1km to Portocamba.As Eiras
As Eiras ➜ Laza: 6.1km
Ascent: 137m Descent: -426m
6.1km and spectacular scenery, to Laza.Laza
Laza ➜ Alberguería: 12.0km
Ascent: 563m Descent: -142m
The Camino follows the main road north west.
3.4km to Soutelo Verde
3km to Tamicelas. Then a steep 380m ascent to Alberguería.Alberguería
Alberguería ➜ Vilar de Barrio: 7.5km
Ascent: 127m Descent: -358m
Vilar de Barrio ➜ Xunqueira de Ambía: 14.2km
Ascent: 253m Descent: -379m
2.3km to Bóveda. Café a little off the Camino to the left.
800m to Vilar de Gomareite, café.
5.4km to Bobadela.
1.2km to Padroso.
Caution is advised on the final descent to Xunqueira de Ambía which can be slippery when wet.Xunqueira de Ambía
Xunqueira de Ambía ➜ Ourense: 22.1km
Ascent: 291m Descent: -699m
The Camino follows the winding road through the village, past the church and then turns right following the signpost for A Pousa. Then after about 40m it veers left down a side road.
3.1km to A Pousa, café, supermarket.
4.3km to Ousende.
800m to Penelas, café, shop.
2.2km to Venda do Rio.
500m to Pereiras, café.
2.2km to A Castellana, café. This is where the suburbs of Ourense begin. At the beginning of the industrial zone are some information boards for pilgrims with maps. From here it's unpleasant suburban walking to the city centre.
2.2km to Reboredo, at the right turn on to Estrada ao Polígono, arrows urge you to go right up a hill on a narrow lane, you can either follow them or continue straight on Estrada ao Polígono. Soon afterwards, at a roundabout, you need to go left on to a minor road, Rúa do Cruceiro, rather than following the dangerous main road.
2.8km to Seixalbo, café.
2.5km to the second roundabout where the Camino veers left down Avenida de Zamora (2nd exit). Follow the Camino for the Xunta Albergue, for Grelo Albergue take Rúa Nosa Señora da Sainza (1st exit).Ourense
RIGHT ROUTE: Ourense ➜ Cea: 22.5km
Ascent: 694m Descent: -300m
LEFT ROUTE: Ourense ➜ Cea: 21.6km
Ascent: 772m Descent: -379m
After crossing the bridge, 300m up the hill the Camino divides, the right route turns on to Avenida de Santiago, while the left route continues straight towards the (northern) railway station, visible up the hill. Both routes involve a steep climb to get out of the valley of the River Miño.
This route can get muddy and flooded after rain.
Turn right on to Avenida de Santiago which you follow for 700m, walking on the RIGHT otherwise you'll miss the waymarkings, until the Camino veers on to a minor road to the right. After a short while you'll cross the main road again and continue steeply uphill. You'll cross another road and then there's a steep 250m climb over 2km.
ATTENTION! Fake yellow arrows will try to lead you towards the village of Cambeo. They're a slightly lighter colour than normal arrows, play close attention, they appear in the woods after the Camino flattens out. If you accidentally end up in Cambeo you'll have to follow the main road left to rejoin the Camino (ignore arrows urging you to continue north!)
12.3km from Ourense to Tamallancos, cafés.
1.1km to Bouzas, café.
5.1km to Viduedo, café, shop.
El Alojamiento Pazos is in the village of Pazos. To get there take a right turn on to a small road where the Camino crosses it 600m after Viduedo. From the Camino it's 550m. Doubles 40€, triples 60€. Including breakfast. If you wish to stay two nights they provide a shuttle service to and from Castro Dozón. Tel 619 445 640
2km to Casas Novas...
Continue straight up the hill, walking on the right, when you see the railway station (station café opens 05:00) in front of you veer left and pass in front of it on to Rúa Eulogio Gómez Franqueira, from where you basically follow the yellow arrows on the right side of the street, along the side of a busy main road for 2.8km to Quintela, where, opposite Bodegas Arnoya, you take the smaller road which branches right. You follow this for 700m until, outside the showrooms of Gómez y Crespo (farm machinery manufacturing), where the road goes right, you continue straight. You pass under the new train viaduct to the tunnel under the old train tracks, push the button to get pedestrian priority and (with your torch lit, just in case some driver ignores the traffic lights) pass through the tunnel. After the tunnel the climb begins, 290m ascent over 2.2km.
11.8km from Ourense to Cima de Vila and Casa César, an informal café run by César, a retired lorry driver, who serves up delicious home-made cakes and other goodies, including his own wine.
3.5km to Ponte Mandras, café and shop.
4.3km to Casas Novas...
Casas Novas, café (food reported to be worth avoiding). From where it's 2km to Cea.Cea
RIGHT ROUTE: Cea ➜ Oseira: 8.6km
Ascent: 223m Descent: -101m
LEFT ROUTE: Cea ➜ Castro Dozón: 14.6km
Ascent: 551m Descent: -337m
There are two routes between Cea and Castro Dozón. The right route is the 'official' one and passes through Oseira. The left route is slightly shorter.
From Praza Maior go north on to Rúa da Praza Maior and cross the main road on to Rúa de Lodairo (past the Bread Monument) and follow the signs.
6km through open country to Pielas. Café, O Toxo, reported good.Oseira
Oseira ➜ Castro Dozón: 10.4km
Ascent: 397m Descent: -313m
The walk to Castro Dozón begins with a 1.4km 170m steep climb over rocky ground.
6.4km to A Gouxa, café - not open mornings.
From Praza Maior go north on to Rúa da Praza Maior and then at the main road turn left, walk for 140m then go right following the signs that say Oseira 9, pass alongside the Community Centre / Edificio Multiusos and follow the yellow arrows.
1.8km to Cotelas, cafés.
In Cotelas, on the Camino on the left, guest house O Refugio with private en suite rooms from 12€, evening meals and breakfast from 07:00. All in a quiet rural location. Tel 988 282 593 or 606 709 167 *** Closed since the beginning of Covid. See updates under Cea.
2km to Piñor, café, pharmacy.
1.1km to Arenteiro, café.
1.2km to O Reino.
Restaurante Hostal Ateneo, turn left at O Reino and follow the OU-154 for 500m until the 2nd turn right which brings you down to the main road. Turn left onto the main road, it's 370m from here. Café / restaurant. Singles 20€, doubles 40€. Please call to reserve. Tel 988 403 203
8.5km to Castro Dozón. Care is necessary on this part because of faded and missing waymarkings. Be careful not to miss one yellow arrow at a left turn which is on a bollard positioned above most people's normal line of sight.
Castro Dozón ➜ A Laxe: 19.0km
Ascent: 375m Descent: -638m
4.4km north of Castro Dozón the Camino veers left away from the main road on to a minor one.
1.7km to Puxallos.
6.9km to Estación de Lalín, cafés. Helpful information board on the Camino. A Taberna da Vento, just past the roundabout, first exit, does good food. Also café A Estación, just off the second exit.
Hostal A Taberna De Vento, same building as the restaurant of the same name. Doubles from 40€. Website a-taberna-de-vento.marketinghotelero.top Tel 629 306 679
4.5km to A Eirexe, café. A new albergue is current being built in A Eirexe. Details to follow. 42°39'43.9"N 8°09'06.8"W February 2023
2.3km to A Laxe.A Laxe
A Laxe ➜ Silleda: 9.7km
Ascent: 297m Descent: -286m
2km to Prado, shop, pharmacy, café on the main road just to the right of the Camino.
4.8km at the beginning of an industrial zone where the Camino goes left, there is a sign pointing to a restaurant 200m off the Camino. It's actually quite a lot further than that and on the main road.Silleda
Silleda ➜ Bandeira: 7.0km
Ascent: 82m Descent: -213m
Follow the Camino along the main road north through the town to where it veers left on to a path.Bandeira
Bandeira ➜ Leiras: 5.1km
Ascent: 73m Descent: -152m
Use one of the pedestrian crossings in town to cross to the right side of the street, otherwise you'll be crossing at a dangerous bend.Leiras
Leiras ➜ Ponte Ulla: 8.1km
Ascent: 152m Descent: -365m
4.3km to A Carballeira, café.
Steep descent to Ponte Ulla.Ponte Ulla
Ponte Ulla ➜ Outeiro: 4.3km
Ascent: 248m Descent: -29m
The Camino goes right up some steps just before the underpass.Outeiro
Outeiro ➜ A Susana: 7.9km
Ascent: 159m Descent: -233m
If you feel like treating yourself about 3.4km further along the Camino is a guesthouse which has been recommended, Casa de Casal, double rooms from about 60€. Website www.casadecasal.com Tel 981 503 227A Susana
A Susana ➜ Santiago de Compostela: 9.1km
Ascent: 276m Descent: -234m
4.5km to Piñeiro, cafés.
1.4km just before the suburb of Angrois you'll pass the bridge over the railway track which was the scene of a train crash on 24 July 2013 in which 80 people died.
3.1km to Santiago Cathedral.Santiago de Compostela
Copyright © Gerald Kelly 2023. All text and photos.