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Sevilla / Seville

Triana Backpackers is on Calle Rodrigo de Triana, in Triana, across the river from the city centre. This well-run and friendly hostel has dorm beds at the pilgrim price of 15€ and is popular with pilgrims and backpackers (so possibly noisy). You must phone or email to get this price and it's only for your first night. Also singles 25€, doubles 40€. If you're cycling you can contact them about having your bike delivered there a few days before you arrive. They can also arrange bike hire. More information and booking on 954 459 960 or from their Website www.trianahostel.com/en Email sevillatriana@gmail.com

The Nomad Hostel is also popular with pilgrims. Dormitory beds from 22€, singles 60€, doubles 80€. It's at Calle Itálica 1, corner of Calle O'Donnell. Website www.thenomadhostel.com Tel 608 862 153

Hotel Simón, at Calle Garcia de Vinuesa 19, about 120m from the cathedral, has been recommended by several pilgrims, it has double rooms from about 53€. Tel 954 226 660, website www.hotelsimonsevilla.com

Hospedería Convento de Santa Rosalía at Calle Cardenal Spínola 8, in the northern part of the city centre near the Alameda. Traditional pilgrim accommodation. Singles from 30€. Must be booked in advance. Tel 954 383 209

The city of Seville has a population of 688,711. It is the capital of the Province of Seville and the Autonomous Community of Andalusia. Because it's a big city it has everything you're likely to need in the way of shops, cafés and restaurants, banks, pharmacies, etc., but very little in the way of pilgrim-orientated services. For example, there is no dedicated pilgrim albergue.

CREDENCIALES (pilgrim passports): are available from the following places: the very helpful and friendly Amigos del Camino de Santiago en Sevilla, at Calle Castilla 82, which is on the Camino as it passes through Triana. Opening hours vary, please check their website www.viaplata.org under Atención al Peregrino. Libreria Diocesana / Diocesan Book Shop, it's in the Archbishops Palace on Plaza Virgen de los Reyes, beside the cathedral on the Giralda (the tower) side. Go in the main entrance and it's on the right, 09:00 to 14:00, Monday to Friday. Credenciales also available from Hotel Simón and Triana Backpackers (details above). If you're going all the way you'll probably need more than one for all those stamps. Credenciales are available on the Vía from larger municipal and religious albergues in major towns and cities, but if you think you'll need more than one it might be easier to buy them in advance. If you'll be in Seville at a weekend and you're in a hurry to start walking it might be better to get a Credencial in advance from (for example) your national Camino association.

EQUIPMENT: if you need to do some last-minute equipment shopping there's a Decathlon outdoor shop in the city centre near Las Setas on Calle Martín Villa.

SIM CARDS: if you need a SIM card, from Hotel Simón walk 20m towards the cathedral and on your left is a shop, Photo & Phone, which sells them. Mobile operator Labara has good plans for international calls and data: www.lebara.es Vodafone www.vodafone.es and Orange www.orange.es now also do pre-paid plans aimed at visiting foreigners.

PILGRIM MASS (Misa del Peregrino): every morning at 08:30 in the cathedral, enter by the door on Avenida de la Constitución.

EATING: Seville has a big tapas culture and many bars around both Triana and the city centre have good selections. Recommended for tapas is Bodega Dos de Mayo on Plaza de la Gavidia, it's very popular so best to arrive early (ie. 20:00). If your preparations for the Camino includes eating like a horse and you like fried seafood of all types, then you should try the Plato Variado in Abaceria Alborea on Calle Jacinto, in Triana. The kiosk on the corner on the city side of Triana bridge does good churros y chocolate.

CULTURE: Seville is famous for Sevillanas singing and dancing. If you'd like to experience it there are many places around town where you can, the following are recommended. Casa Anselmo on Calle Pagés del Corro, in Triana, kicks off about midnight. It's far more authentic than the tourist shows in the city centre, free in but drinks are pricey. Best to reserve because it's become very popular. Tel 606 162 502. If you prefer a more come-as-you-are vibe you may prefer La Carbonería on Calle Céspedes, deep in the old city. Shows kick off about 21:00 but if you want a seat with a view you'd be best to get there well before that. It's fairly freestyle and the format and quality varies according to who shows up on the night. A more expensive but highly recommended option is La Casa de la Memoria, on Calle Cuna. Shows here are more like operatic performances delivered by professional performers. They generally do two show a night, 19:30 and 21:00. Tickets from their website www.casadelamemoria.es. There are also frequently street performances in the streets around the cathedral and on Plaza de España.

BE AWARE: Unfortunately, Seville is a big city and a tourist destination so there's a certain amount of opportunistic thievery and pick-pocketing, especially of mobile phones.

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About the Vía de la Plata Guide

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The full Walking Guide to the Vía de la Plata has the following:

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If you'd like to see what it looks like you can download a samples from here the first 20 pages of the Walking Guide to the Vía de la Plata

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Copyright © Gerald Kelly 2024. All text and photos.