Sevilla

Total distance to Santiponce: 9.6km
Total ascent: 96m
Total descent: -89m

The Vía begins outside the main door of the cathedral, turn right to follow the tram tracks along Avenida de la Constitución, then, at the corner of the cathedral turn left on to Calle García de Vinuesa, then first right on to Calle Jimios. This becomes Calle Zaragoza, which you follow through various twists and turns until it intersects with Puerta de Triana, where you'll see Café de Indias on your left. Now turn left and continue straight to cross Triana Bridge (Puente de Isabel II). Once across the river turn right after the Mercado de Triana along Calle San Jorge and Calle de Castilla (where there's a Día supermarket which opens at 09:30). After a few hundred metres you'll come to a modern square where there's a monument to the Vía de la Plata marking 1000km to Santiago (it's too late now to start wondering if this is a good idea). Walk up the steps to the right which bring you to a main road. Walk anticlockwise around the roundabout, crossing two roads (traffic is dangerous here) then turning right on to a footpath and left down to a large, run-down carpark where you veer right and then left to cross the narrow bridge across the main branch of the Guadalquivir. This route is marked with yellow arrows but they're easy to miss in the city. Once outside the city they become easier to spot.

3.3km from the cathedral, just after crossing the narrow bridge over the main branch of the Guadalquivir, you have the option to continue straight to pass through the suburb of Camas, or to go right along the bank of the river (muddy after wet weather), to bypass Camas. Don't let the grimness of this first part get you down, things improve once you're out of the city.

It's 6km to Santiponce, from the point where the routes divide regardless which way you go.

RIGHT / RIVER ROUTE 5.3km

Walk along the banks of the river for 1.3km then follow a lane as it veers left. In 1.5km you'll pass under an elevated motorway then continue straight under railway tracks and another motorway, then right to join a main road which you follow to the left to a roundabout where you rejoin the left route and turn right towards Santiponce. This route passes through some run down, deserted areas and not everyone will feel comfortable walking it on their own. You may encounter cute donkeys and unfortunately also loose dogs.

LEFT / CAMAS ROUTE 5.2km

1.5km to Camas from where the routes divide. Shops, cafés, bank, pharmacy. Cafetería Mas on the Camino on the right on Calle José Payán opens at 07:30 every day.

In Camas turn right at the roundabout with the fountain in the middle on to Calle José Payán and follow this until you come to the Church of Santa Maria de Gracia where you take the street to its left, also called Santa Maria de Gracia. From here the Camino continues straight along the side of a busy main road through suburbs and industrial areas, through two roundabouts until after 3.3km at a roundabout you come to where the two routes rejoin.

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN 1km BEFORE SANTIPONCE

Santiponce

Total distance to Guillena: 12.8km
Total ascent: 117m
Total descent: -120m

Continue north along the main road through Santiponce, after 2.2km turn right at a roundabout and under the motorway and then veer left where the Camino leaves the road and continues (at last) on a quite lane through fields. There's a stream you need to ford which may be difficult after rain. In 2019 the local Amigos put a steel beam across the stream just downstream of the ford however it won't be safe to use if the water is flowing quickly.

Occasionally after prolonged heavy rain this stream can be badly flooded. Happily there is an alternative route which branches left about 380m before the stream (sometimes there is a temporary signpost here but since it's the only possible left turn on a long straight road it would be hard to miss). Follow this road passing a farmhouse on your right then passing under the motorway, veer left and right to join a main road. Here you turn right and follow the road (veering right) all the way to Guillena. This detour adds about 3km to the day's walk (better than a muddy drenching or worse!)

Before Guillena (on the normal route) the yellow arrows direct you to turn sharp left towards the main road, bringing you past the private albergue, Albergue Luz del Camino. It is possible to go right at this point but it will mean fording another stream which can be difficult and muddy. The description of the route through Guillena is based on the assumption that you turned left.

Guillena

Total distance to Castilblanco de los Arroyos: 18.2km
Total ascent: 469m
Total descent: -158m

Leaving town continue past the municipal albergue on Avenida de la Vega and then first right down a road to a ford which you cross (if the water's too high there's a bridge to your left) and then up the slope to the right then veering left, then 1.5km to a roundabout where you veer left through an industrial area and eventually into open country.

Just before Castilblanco the Camino veers left at a roundabout and follows Avenida España through town. Continue straight at this roundabout for the municipal albergue.

Castilblanco de los Arroyos

Total distance to Almadén de la Plata: 28.5km
Total ascent: 615m
Total descent: -480m

You can either follow the Camino or the main road through Castilblanco. The Camino then continues north along the main road towards Almadén. This road isn't usually busy.

There are no facilities of any sort on this stage and you should not be wandering out of Castilblanco without enough food and water to see you through to the end.

Continue on the road (SE-5405) for 16km until you come to a place known as Finca el Berrocal where you will see arrows pointing through a gate on the right into the Parque Natural Sierra Norte. From here it's unpaved paths to Almadén. If the main gate is closed there's another pedestrian gate to the right which may be open (it is not visible from the road). Keep some high-energy food or drink in reserve for the last couple of kilometres where there's a steep hill which ascends abruptly about 100m. Alternatively you can follow the road all the way to Almadén, it's slightly longer but an easier climb.

Almadén de la Plata

Total distance to El Real de la Jara: 13.9km
Total ascent: 360m
Total descent: -346m

The Camino is abundantly (if not always clearly) signposted through Almadén with signs and yellow arrows. If in doubt when leaving town aim for the bull ring on the hill to the north, the Camino passes it to its left.

El Real de la Jara

Total distance to Monesterio: 19.9km
Total ascent: 562m
Total descent: -277m

1.3km you cross a stream which marks the border with Extremadura.

10.4km from the stream to the A-66 motorway where there is a 24 hour motorway service station, a shop with a good selection of regional products, an ATM, and Hotel Leo which has luxurious singles from 40€, café / restaurant. Tel 924 517 048. Be careful crossing the various roads here. Yellow arrows are a bit scarce, at the roundabout take the road under the motorway signposted Monesterio.

Monesterio

Total distance to Fuente de Cantos: 21.0km
Total ascent: 328m
Total descent: -496m

Some misleading waymarkings on this stretch - follow the yellow arrows in preference to any 'official' markings (ie. the metal boxes), however there are places where the yellow arrows are scarce in which case you'll have to rely on the metal boxes. If you can't find any markings remember that you need to head north towards Fuente de Cantos which is intermittently visible on the horizon way before you get there.

Fuente de Cantos

Total distance to Calzadilla de los Barros: 6.3km
Total ascent: 65m
Total descent: -91m

Calzadilla de los Barros

Total distance to Zafra: 18.3km
Total ascent: 208m
Total descent: -256m

2.4km after Calzadilla, after reaching the main road, the Camino turns left. There is an alternative left turn 500m before this one but it is frequently flooded after rain (not shown on the map).

14.2km to Puebla de Sancho Pérez

Shops, cafés, banks, all on the Camino. However they take their siesta very seriously. Café Abadia, left at the church, is usually open. Hostal el Monte, has been recently recommended, it's on Calle San Antonio, signposted to the right 420m. Singles 22€, doubles 36€. They also have a restaurant which is also reported good. Tel 670 222 267. Albergue La Hermita is reported closed.

4km to Zafra.

Between here and Zafra there used to be two routes you could chose from however recently the right route (through the railway station) has been reported closed.

The Camino to Zafra goes along the side of a road for 2km before it forks left for a while and rejoins the main road near Albergue Van Gogh. (You can also ignore the left fork and continue along the road all the way.)

Zafra

Total distance to Los Santos de Maimona: 4.4km
Total ascent: 122m
Total descent: -101m

From the Amigos albergue the Camino runs straight up Avenida de la Estación, diagonally across Plaza España then down pedestrianised Calle Sevilla, to the centre of town at Plaza Grande, which it crosses on to Calle Tetuán before turning right on to Calle Conde de la Corte and then veering left and, close to the municipal albergue, right on to Calle Ancha then Calle San Francisco, straight across a roundabout towards a tower, la Torre de San Francisco, and from there into open country.

Los Santos de Maimona

Total distance to La Almazara: 8.4km
Total ascent: 110m
Total descent: -160m

The Camino arrives in front of the church on Plaza España, and then passes to its left. Thanks to the local Amigos for their massive yellow arrows!

La Almazara

Total distance to Villafranca de los Barros: 6.9km
Total ascent: 36m
Total descent: -105m

Villafranca de los Barros

Total distance to Torremejía: 27.6km
Total ascent: 144m
Total descent: -255m

Some dead-straight Roman road walking on this part.

If this stage is too long for you there is the option to detour to Almendralejo. To get there turn left on a good quality unpaved road about 1km after the beginning of the long straight stretch. Almendralejo has all facilities. Good Menú del Día in Cafétería Andana, on Calle San Blas. For a shorter route from here to Torremejía walk north along the main road, when you come to the motorway use the bridge to get to the other side and follow the unpaved road which runs parallel to the motorway on the right.

In Almendralejo, good reports of Hotel Los Angeles, on Calle Macarena. Singles from €35, doubles 45€. Tel 924 670 319.

Torremejía

Total distance to Mérida: 15.4km
Total ascent: 95m
Total descent: -186m

The continues on or near the main road for 6.6km north of Torremejía until a sign indicates to join a path on the right. From here it's a more-or-less straight run into Mérida.

Mérida

Total distance to El Carrascalejo: 13.8km
Total ascent: 215m
Total descent: -134m

6.1km to Proserpina, cafés. Pass straight through a roundabout and take a left fork signposted as a cul-de-sac. Then follow a footpath which skirts the reservoir until it rejoins the road and continues north.

After Proserpina the Camino follows a small road for 4km until, at a point clearly marked with yellow arrows on a tree, it goes left on to a sandy lane, just before the road turns right over a bridge. The Camino then continues on unpaved lanes until El Carrascalejo.

El Carrascalejo

Total distance to Aljucén: 2.6km
Total ascent: 40m
Total descent: -64m

Aljucén

Total distance to Alcuéscar: 19.4km
Total ascent: 304m
Total descent: -120m

Leaving town there are two possible ways. The easiest is to follow the village's main street north for 330m until the Camino takes a right turn on to another road which it follows for 1km until it joins a bigger road for 400m before turning right on to an unpaved lane.

14.1km from leaving the road to the right turnoff to the Basilica de Santa Lucía del Trampal. If you're interested in architecture and historic sights you may enjoy the detour to the Basilica de Santa Lucía del Trampal. It's a 7th century church in Visigothic style, one of the few remaining. It's 4km off the Camino from this point. From the basilica you can either retrace your steps back to this point or continue 4.5km along quiet roads to Alcuéscar.

If your destination is Albergue Turistico Los Olivos then 700m past the turnoff for the Basilica you'll see a sign pointing LEFT towards Puerto de la Herrerias, follow this and it brings you there in 1.3km. At this point the Camino goes RIGHT bringing you directly to Alcuéscar in 2.8km.

Alcuéscar

Total distance to Aldea del Cano: 15.1km
Total ascent: 69m
Total descent: -126m

The Camino turns sharp left just after the monastery.

8km to Casas de Don Antonio, the Camino bypasses the village. There's a café in the Centro Social (behind the ayuntamiento) which also sells bread and basic groceries, and a pharmacy nearby.

7km to Aldea del Cano, the Camino bypasses the village which is a little to the right.

Aldea del Cano

Total distance to Valdesalor: 11.5km
Total ascent: 96m
Total descent: -101m

Valdesalor

Total distance to Cáceres: 11.7km
Total ascent: 169m
Total descent: -113m

From Valdesalor continue north on the right side of the main road. Waymarking isn't great here but basically, the Camino meanders parallel to this road for 5.4km then it heads off into open country before arriving into the suburbs of Cáceres.

Cáceres

Total distance to Casar de Cáceres: 11.4km
Total ascent: 107m
Total descent: -185m

The Camino turns right at Plaza San Francisco and enters the walled old city from the east. At the cathedral it turns sharp right. If you want to go to Plaza Mayor and the part of the city with cafés, shops, etc. then continue straight here along Calle Arco de la Estrella. After the cathedral the Camino leaves the old city on to Plazuela de Santiago where we pass Iglesia de Santiago and veer left and continues north out of the city along Calle de Zapataría, passing to the left of the bullring, from where you can easily pick up the waymarkings.

For 2.5km between here and Casar de Cáceres the Camino runs along the side of a busy main road - dangerous, especially in poor visibility.

Casar de Cáceres

Total distance to Embalse de Alcántara: 21.5km
Total ascent: 273m
Total descent: -408m

Continue north along the main street to leave town. After 1.9km, where there's a small round building with a pointed roof, take the right fork.

The footbridge for pilgrims over the AVE tracks is now open so the Camino has returned to its old route down to the reservoir.

When walking along the road, after crossing the second bridge, a footpath leads to the right up the hill. You can go this way if you're continuing to Cañaveral. If you want to go to the albergue at Embalse de Alcántara stay on the road.

Embalse de Alcántara

Total distance to Cañaveral: 11.5km
Total ascent: 246m
Total descent: -125m

From Embalse you can either follow the official Camino on a track up the hill away from the road or you can also continue on the road (N-630) all the way to Cañaveral (slightly shorter).

Cañaveral

Total distance to Grimaldo (turnoff for): 8.0km
Total ascent: 216m
Total descent: -148m

There is some confusion about the route immediately after Cañaveral. Following the main road north until you see yellow arrows directing you on to a lane on the left. (There are signs for other hiking routes around here 'Caminos Naturales' - do not be tempted to follow them!) This ascend gently at first and then more steeply before descending to a road which you cross and veer right to pass through the car park of a strip joint (El Puerto, does not give pilgrim discounts and in any case is closed during daylight hours), then veering left to follow the yellow arrows on a path through a wood.

Over the following stages there are three villages which are described as (turnoff for). These are villages which have a pilgrim albergue but which are not on the actual route of the Camino. The distances given is the distance to the point on the Camino where you turn off to get to the village in question, not the actual distance to the village. The distance of the village from the Camino is given in the route description (see below for Grimaldo). Getting back to the Camino from one of these villages is described on the detailed information for the village.

The village of Grimaldo is 650m off the Camino to the right at an abundantly signposted junction.

Grimaldo (turnoff for)

Total distance to Ríolobos (turnoff for): 7.8km
Total ascent: 109m
Total descent: -110m

The village of Ríolobos is 4km off the Camino to the left. The place where your turn off is clearly signposted.

Ríolobos (turnoff for)

Total distance to Galisteo: 11.4km
Total ascent: 131m
Total descent: -273m

4km after the turnoff for Ríolobos you cross a canal and then turn right on to a road which you follow for a short distance until the Camino goes left on to a lane.

5.7km to the turnoff for San Gil. The village of San Gil is 2.4km off the Camino, it has a shop, cafés and a pharmacy. Bar Las Pizarras does good tapas and meals, it is on the main road at the end of the village. San Gil also has a municipal albergue which has been closed since before Covid. From San Gil you can continue on an alternative route to Carcaboso completely bypassing Galisteo. Like the other route it's all road walking.

Galisteo

Total distance to Carcaboso: 11.0km
Total ascent: 105m
Total descent: -118m

From Cafétería Las Picotas turn left and walk up the hill towards the walled town and continue walking with the town walls to your right to the other side of the old town from where you should be able to pick up the waymarkings which lead steeply downhill and across an old bridge over the Río Jerte, straight through a roundabout, under the motorway and then right at another roundabout to follow the paved road north towards Carcaboso.

6km Aldehuala del Jerte. Cafés.

Carcaboso

Total distance to Aldeanueva del Camino: 39.4km
Total ascent: 678m
Total descent: -423m

Leaving Carcaboso pay careful attention to waymarkings at the various road junctions. 1.3km from the village there is a point where previously there were two routes which divided here for about 2km. Nowadays the Camino continues straight at this point.

Since the pilgrim albergue in Oliva de Placencia closed we are left with a 39.4km stretch with no pilgrim accommodation or any place where you can reliable get water or food.

There are several options for breaking up this stage by staying in alternative accommodation off the Camino. Details are given below.

12km to Dehesa Ventaquemada, turnoff for Oliva de Placencia

12km from Carcaboso you come to a house beside a road known as Dehesa Ventaquemada, this is the turnoff for the village of Oliva de Placencia. Continue straight to arrive at the ruins of the Roman city of Cáparra in 6.5km, or turn right and walk 6km off the Camino, along a quiet road, to Oliva de Plasencia. Oliva has cafés and a shop with limited opening hours opposite the Ayuntamiento. If you sleep in Oliva you can take a signposted route directly to Cáparra in 6km, so visiting Oliva would mean about 6km of extra walking.

Casa Rural Vía Caparra in Oliva de Plasencia has singles 25€, doubles 35€. Website www.albergueviacaparra.com Tel 620 007 490 They may collect from Ventaquemada or Cáparra.

Albérgue Turístico San Blas in Oliva de Plasencia has singles 19€ with breakfast. Tel 647 563 450

6km to Cáparra Roman City

The settlement which we know as the Roman city of Cáparra probably has pre-Roman roots. It was possibly founded by the Vetons, a (probably) Celtic tribe who inhabited this region before the Roman conquest. The Arch of Cáparra marked the centre of the city and is today the best preserved remnant of the city, it was erected in the 1st century, during the Flavian dynasty. At the visitors centre in Cáparra there are public toilets and vending machines for snacks and drinks (you will need coins and the building isn't always open). The visitors centre is 300m from the Camino, turn right at the arch itself or shortly after it.

On the Camino after Cáparra there are several rivers which you cross using stepping-stones and which may be extremely difficult to cross during periods of wet weather. Please ask advice locally and don't attempt dangerous river crossings - especially if you're on your own. If it has been raining a lot your best bet may be to go to Oliva de Plasencia and follow the minor road north from there until it joins the N-630 near Villar de Plasencia and then follow that north towards Hostal Asturias.

8.4km after Cáparra, turn off for Hostal Asturias and Hotel Jarilla. Where the Camino runs along the side of a straight road you'll see yellow writing pointing right. Both accommodations are 2.2km from this point on the other side of the motorway.

Hostal Asturias has nice singles 30€, doubles 50€, a café and a good restaurant with charcoal grill. They may pick up from Cáparra on request. Tel 927 477 057 or 628 119 826.

Hotel Jarilla, across the road and a couple of hundred metres north of Hostal Asturias. Doubles 45€. Café / restaurant with good food. Website www.hoteljarilla.com Tel 927 477 040

To get back to the Camino from either Hostal Asturia or Hotel Jarilla, walk north along the N-630 for 1.5km until blue arrows point you on to an unpaved road to the right. This will bring you back to the Camino before Aldeanueva. There is also the possibility of joining the new Vía Verde which passes through Hervas and then goes straight from there to Baños de Montemayor, avoiding there road walking after Aldeanueva. [more detail needed, distances, etc. ???]

Meanwhile, back on the Camino, after the turnoff for Hostal Asturias, in 4.9km you will pass underneath the motorway then immediately see signs pointing left to ford a river. This river is often too big to ford, in which case you should cross the river on the bridge on your right and continue on the road until you rejoin the Camino. You will pass under the motorway three more times before Aldeaneuva.

At the sign which points right towards Via Pecuaria, if you wish you can continue straight and walk along the road to Aldeanueva. Otherwise you'll go right and follow a slightly longer route through open countryside.

Aldeanueva del Camino

Total distance to Baños de Montemayor: 9.6km
Total ascent: 234m
Total descent: -47m

Follow the Camino north through the village to where it joins the main road, at a roundabout (motorway service station café which opens early, to your left), cross over the motorway and veer left. The Camino to Baños is along the side of the road, although there are some places where you can walk a little off the road. About 2km out there's a bollard which urges you to veer right on to a lane, ignore it and stay on the road.

5.1km café.

Baños de Montemayor

Total distance to Puente de Béjar: 3.2km
Total ascent: 199m
Total descent: -18m

Turn sharp left after the Ayuntamiento and follow the Camino as it winds its way through the village before joining the Roman road up the side of the valley towards the pass.

3km with a 200m ascent to Puerto de Béjar. Entering Castilla y León. Shortly after comes Peñacaballera, café and a petrol station with a small shop.

Shortly after the petrol station the Camino turns left away from the road. The pilgrim albergue at Puente de Béjar is to the right at this point.

Puente de Béjar

Total distance to Calzada de Béjar: 9.4km
Total ascent: 207m
Total descent: -312m

Beautiful walking through rolling hills to...

Calzada de Béjar

Total distance to Valverde de Valdelacasa: 8.7km
Total ascent: 74m
Total descent: -64m

Valverde de Valdelacasa

Total distance to Fuenterroble de Salvatierra: 12.0km
Total ascent: 255m
Total descent: -103m

3.6km to Valdecasa, café which does food in the Centro de Día, turn right at the main road, it's about 300m on the right.

2km after Valdecasa there is a junction with a lot of confusing yellow arrows. Basically you have two options, either continue on the road or take the lane which goes left at a right angle, this seems to be the 'official' Camino. Both routes bring you to Fuenteroble in approximately the same distance.

Fuenterroble de Salvatierra

Total distance: 18.4km RIGHT ROUTE to Pedrosillo de los Aires
Total ascent: 271m
Total descent: -265m
Total distance: 28.3km LEFT ROUTE to San Pedro de Rozados
Total ascent: 454m
Total descent: -430m

There are two possible routes between Fuenterroble and Morille. They divide 12km after Fuenterroble at a gate / cattle grid with a sign which says Dueña de Abajo. The two routes rejoin in the village of Morille.

The RIGHT ROUTE passes through Pedrosillo (albergue, cafés) and has a total distance (Fuenterroble to Morille) of 30.1km.

The LEFT ROUTE passes through San Pedro de Rozados (albergue, cafés) and has a total distance of 32.5km.

THE RIGHT ROUTE

From where the route divides to Pedrosilla is 6.5km.

Pedrosillo de los Aires

Total distance to Morille: 11.5km
Total ascent: 173m
Total descent: -193m

5.2km to Monterrubio de la Sierra, unusual café, on the left. Then it's 6.4km to Morille.

THE LEFT ROUTE

From where the routes divide to San Pedro is 16.8km.

Walk uphill along an unpaved path, passing to the right of the windmills on the top of Pico de la Dueña (1,145m, highest point on the Camino so far). Then steeply downhill on another rough path before joining a road.

San Pedro de Rozados is a little off the Camino to the left. Follow the road if you wish to continue to Morille.

San Pedro de Rozados

Total distance to Morille: 3.9km
Total ascent: 18m
Total descent: -57m

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN IN MORILLE

Morille

Total distance to Salamanca: 19.7km
Total ascent: 235m
Total descent: -377m

10km to Miranda de Azán, which is 250m to the right of the Camino. Cafés which all open about 10:00. However, no pilgrim albergue (despite the rumours!)

9.5km to Salamanca

Approaching the city you'll pass under a road on to an urban street, past a roundabout and into a park where you turn right and walk with a stream on your left. You will see a yellow arrow telling you to cross a footbridge to the right, ignore it and continue to follow other yellow arrows with the stream on your left through a tunnel under a railway line, past a petrol station and straight along a street until you see the Roman bridge over the river Duero which you'll cross to the city proper.

Once over the bridge, cross the road and continue right uphill to the point where the right turn to the municipal albergue is indicated with a metal Camino sign set into the ground with the letter 'A' for 'Albergue'.

Salamanca

Total distance to Calzada de Valdunciel: 16.4km
Total ascent: 202m
Total descent: -200m

Leaving Salamanca there are almost no waymarkings of any description (October 2019). Luckily it's mostly straight all the way. From Plaza Mayor continue north along Calle de Zamora, then straight over a roundabout on to Paseo Torres Vilarroel, continuing straight to another roundabout where you veer left on to Avenida de Borgoña, then straight through another roundabout by a large Carrefour supermarket. Here the Camino crosses to the right side of the road and (just when you've abandoned all hope) Camino waymarkings appear again!

7km to Aldeaseca de la Almuña, shops, cafés. The Camino crosses to the right side of the main road just after the village and then crosses it again to arrive to...

4.8km to Castellanos de Villiquera, café, shop by the church, pharmacy.

Calzada de Valdunciel

Total distance to El Cubo de Tierra del Vino: 20.2km
Total ascent: 251m
Total descent: -210m

5.2km cross under the motorway. After rain it may be necessary to follow a short detour to avoid getting your feet wet. It's clearly waymarked.

El Cubo de Tierra del Vino

Total distance to Villanueva de Campeán: 13.7km
Total ascent: 129m
Total descent: -208m

Continue down El Cubo's main street, veer right at the church, cross the river and then take a left.

Villanueva de Campeán

Total distance to Zamora: 18.3km
Total ascent: 126m
Total descent: -249m

4km to the turnoff for San Marcial which is 1km off the Camino, straight ahead where the Camino turns sharp right, where Bar el Cruce, on the main road does food, opens 09:00 or 09:30 Sundays. There's also a small supermarket. From there you can rejoin the Camino by following the main road north for 1.8km. The detour works out at about the same distance as following the Camino.

2km turn right and walk about 2km off the Camino to the village of El Perdigón where Hostal Rural El Perdigón has been recommonded. Website www.hotelruralelperdigon.com Tel 679 495 499

Zamora

Total distance to Montamarta: 18.7km
Total ascent: 231m
Total descent: -178m

The Camino turns left and crosses Plaza Mayor diagonally and then goes down Calle de las Costanillas, veering left at the bottom on to Calle de la Feria then it continues straight across a roundabout. From there it's straight ahead on to Calle Morana then veering left on to Carretera Hiniesta. Then continue straight through another roundabout and walk on the right until the Camino leaves the road and continues on a lane. NB. Another Camino goes west from here towards Portugal, new signposting marks the spot where the paths divide, be careful not to get the routes confused. Just before Roales del Pan there is a place where one sign tells you to go straight and another says right, go RIGHT!

7km to Roales del Pan, cafés and a shop, follow the signs for Bar T&B. Municipal albergue closed, no plans to reopen it. After Roales you will begin to encounter the northern AVE route. A bridge has been built over the new tracks so no special detours are needed.

Montamarta

Total distance to Fontanillas de Castro: 12.6km
Total ascent: 153m
Total descent: -125m

When the reservoir is in flood you'll have to cross the road bridge and turn left towards a small church.

4.1km at this point the route of the Camino has been recently changed. Instead of going straight ahead it turns right and crosses the motorway and then continues north. Continue straight here if you wish to follow the N-631 which will bring you directly to Tábara in approximately 25km, bypassing Riego and Granja. It's reported to be road-side walking but with light traffic and through pretty countryside.

Fontanillas de Castro

Total distance to Riego del Camino: 3.7km
Total ascent: 23m
Total descent: -37m

Café 500m off the Camino, signposted before the village to the right. At the same point continue straight for the village or left for the Camino.

Riego del Camino

Total distance to Granja de Moreruela: 6.7km
Total ascent: 60m
Total descent: -54m

Granja de Moreruela

Total distance to Tábara: 25.3km
Total ascent: 316m
Total descent: -291m

Behind the church is a sign which marks the point where the Camino Sanabrés divides left from the Vía de la Plata to follow a course through southern Galicia to Santiago. The Vía de la Plata continues north to Astorga and beyond. If you want to walk to Astorga I can provide a guide, please just send me an email.

The Camino Sanabrés

6.7km from Granja you will cross a bridge called Puente Quintos over the river Esla. Immediately after the bridge the Camino turns left and follows the river for 1.1km before turning right just before the brow of a hill (where there is a good view of the river to the south) and passes to the left of a ruined farmhouse and then continues on unpaved roads to Faramontanos (care required on some parts near the river). After the bridge it is also possible to walk on the (fairly quiet) road all the way to Faramontanos.

6.8km to Tábara. Approaching and leaving Tábara you will encounter the AVE (high-speed train) tracks however this does not interfere with the Camino route.

The Camino doesn't actually enter Tábara. Just before you arrive in Tábara you'll see arrows pointing right and the church up to your left. The arrows pointing right are the Camino leaving Tábara. If you want to go to the village, head for the church.

Tábara

Total distance: 23.0km RIGHT ROUTE to Santa Marta de Tera
Total ascent: 266m
Total descent: -266m
Total distance: 14.0km LEFT ROUTE to Villanueva de las Peras
Total ascent: 167m
Total descent: -156m

To rejoin the Camino walk back the way you came into town, passing to the left of the tower. There's an alternative route back to the Camino from the municipal albergue which is slightly shorter, ask the hospitalero.

10.2km after Tábara you have the choice of two routes. The right route goes through Bercianos de Valverde. The left route goes through Villanueva de las Peras. The distances given for both routes are from divide to rejoin.

RIGHT ROUTE 5.2km...

4.3km to Bercianos de Valverde from the point where the routes divide, no facilities. From there to Santa Croya de Tera is 8.4km.

LEFT ROUTE 5.6km...

3.8km to Villanueva de las Peras from the point where the routes divide.

Villanueva de las Peras

Total distance to Santa Marta de Tera: 9.4km
Total ascent: 86m
Total descent: -96m

9.4km to Santa Croya de Tera from Villanueva de las Peras.

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN BEFORE SANTA CROYA DE TERA

Santa Croya de Tera, shops and a café. Sadly Albergue Casa Anita has closed.

The Camino goes immediately left after crossing the bridge to Santa Marta de Tera (although in October 2019 the yellow arrows had been repainted to send pilgrims through the village).

Santa Marta de Tera

Total distance to Calzadilla de Tera: 11.1km
Total ascent: 82m
Total descent: -64m

5.8km after Santa Marta the Camino comes to a main road at a gravel quarry. Turn left here and cross the bridge over the Río Tera. The Camino to Calzadilla continues to the right after the bridge. Shortly before Calzadilla there is a set of confusing arrows pointing to the right. Ignore them and continue straight over the canal until you reach a paved road.

Calzadilla de Tera

Total distance to Olleros de Tera: 1.9km
Total ascent: 12m
Total descent: -17m

Be careful because there is a lot of confusing waymarking in this area. You should follow a canal to Olleros. Whichever arrows you find in Calzadilla should being you to this canal.

Olleros de Tera

Total distance to Villar de Farfón: 7.9km
Total ascent: 121m
Total descent: -64m

Continue through the village, cross a main road on to another road, pass to the left of a concrete structure and walk towards a church 1.4km in the distance. From this church you'll walk through open country for 2.6km before arriving at a dam, Embalse de Agavanzal. Approaching the dam there is a sign on the road indicating bicycles to go left (BICIS), this is a slightly easier but longer alternative to the walking route which involves a bit of scrambling around in the mud after wet weather.

Cross the dam and turn immediately left.

Villar de Farfón

Total distance to Rionegro del Puente: 6.1km
Total ascent: 77m
Total descent: -82m

Rionegro del Puente

Total distance to Mombuey: 9.0km
Total ascent: 132m
Total descent: -31m

3.6km, roadside café, El Empalme, 260m along a minor road to the left of the Camino, open from 09:00, closed Mondays.

Mombuey

Total distance to Asturianos: 16.9km
Total ascent: 266m
Total descent: -193m

After Mombuey the Camino follows close to the main road for 2.2km before crossing the motorway. Watch out for rabbits and deer.

5km from Mombuey to Valdemerilla.

3.5km to Cernadilla. This municipal albergue is reported to be closed.

1.9km to San Salvador de Palazuelo. This municipal albergue is reported to be closed.

3.4km Entrepeñas

Azul Sanabria, to the left of the Camino. Can accommodate groups of 3: 1 person 35€, 2 persons 50€, 3 persons 60€. The same people own Las Peñas del Corredor with singles 25€, doubles 40€. Kitchen. Open March to November. Tel 676 653 466

Be careful not to miss the left turn leaving Entrepeñas.

Asturianos

Total distance to Puebla de Sanabria: 14.5km
Total ascent: 199m
Total descent: -261m

Off-road sections between Asturianos and Puebla de Sanabria may be muddy and flooded after rain.

3km to Palacios de Sanabria, cafés, small shop and pharmacy. Bar Mirador, on the main road, is usually open for breakfast. To rejoin the Camino cross the main road from Bar Mirador and veer left uphill.

2.6km to Remesal.

2.9km to Otero de Sanabria.

2.5km to Triufé.

3.5km to Puebla de Sanabria.

Puebla de Sanabria

Total distance to Requejo de Sanabria: 12.3km
Total ascent: 214m
Total descent: -119m

The Camino through Puebla follows the main road and turns right immediately after crossing the bridge. Follow this road around the old town until it crosses another bridge, now continue straight for 1km until the Camino turns abruptly left and continues on a track beside a river. NOTE: following the road (N-525) is a good alternative, the official Camino is poorly waymarked and may be flooded after rain.

9.8km to Terroso from Puebla de Sanabria. This village lies on a long (but scenic) meander which can be avoided by following the road.

Requejo de Sanabria

Total distance to Lubián: 16.8km
Total ascent: 535m
Total descent: -497m

AVE works are still causing disruptions on this stretch and the traditional route of the Camino is only passable with great difficulty (if at all) because many of the waymarkings have been obliterated by the construction works. A detour is signposted shortly after Requejo and following it is advisable. This detour directs pilgrims to follow the old main road (N-525) until a point 5.9km after Requejo where a sign indicates to follow a path to the left of the road. This path is part of the traditional route. It goes underneath the old road and the motorway and then back again, then zigzags several times before reaching the pass at A Canda after 2.2km, where there is a monument. The altitude here is 1,365m and it is the highest point of the Camino Sanabrés and the Vía de la Plata. From here continue downhill to cross the motorway again over a bridge. Then follow the road into Padornelo...

1.5km to Padornelo from the pass

Padornelo has a café, Bar Silva.

400m after the village Hotel Padornelo has a café and a good restaurant. Singles 30€, doubles 40€, triples 50€. Website www.hotelpadornelo.com Tel 652 077 319

After Padornelo there's another detour, Desvio Provisional, which directs you left to cross the motorway and walk along a road for a short while before, just beyond three concrete silos, you veer left and cross under the motorway on to a path which runs parallel to it until it descends into the valley and finally climbs to Lubián. (This route replaces the traditional route through Aciberos)

8.8km from Padornelo to Lubián

Lubián

Total distance to A Gudiña: 24.4km
Total ascent: 741m
Total descent: -791m

From the turnoff to the Santuario de La Tuiza (signposted), follow the paved road down to the bridge, past the recreation / sports area, and pass under the motorway. The Camino continues past the Sanctuary and then the 320m climb to Portela de la Canda begins.

Parts of this stretch can be flooded after rain. It is possible to walk on the road: leaving Lubián follow the ZA-106 west for about 9km until it intersects with the Camino at Portela de la Canda, a few hundred metres after where the motorway enters a tunnel. Due to the meandering routes the road follows walking on the ZA-106 to this point would be about 9km compared to 6.7km on the Camino.

6.9km from Lubián to the pass, Portela de la Canda, at altitude 1,260m.

Welcome to Galicia!

1.5km from the pass to A Canda.

3.3km to Vilavella

Vilavella has two cafés, both a little off the Camino, the food in Bar ON has been recommended.

Hostal Porta Galega is about 500m off the Camino to the right in Vilavella, beside the main road. Singles 35€. Café / restaurant with local specialities. Website www.hostalportagalega.es Tel 988 425 593

3.5km to O Pereiro.

5.2km to O Cañizo.

4km to...

A Gudiña

Total distance to Campobecerros: 20.2km
Total ascent: 514m
Total descent: -597m

The Camino veers right off the main road on to Rúa Maior. After about 200m is the divide for the Laza and longer and little-frequented Verín routes. Only the Laza route is described here. This route is entirely road with nice scenery (in clear weather, which is rare).

The route through Campobecerros is open with no problems due to AVE works. However, the AVE works near Campobecerros are extensive and this situation may change at short notice. Please heed any advice from reliable sources.

7.7km to A Venda Da Teresa.

2.3km to A Venda Da Capela.

3.2km to A Venda do Bolaño.

A steep 248m descent to Campobecerros.

Campobecerros

Total distance to Laza: 14.5km
Total ascent: 367m
Total descent: -789m

3.1km to Portocamba.

5.3km to As Eiras, where the local Amigos del Camino run a small help-yourself outdoor café. Guest house Casa Terra Alma has been recommended for accommodation and food. Website terra-alma.es Tel 659 128 097

6.1km and spectacular scenery, to Laza.

Laza

Total distance to Alberguería: 12.0km
Total ascent: 563m
Total descent: -142m

The Camino follows the main road north west.

3.4km to Soutelo Verde

3km to Tamicelas. Then a steep 380m ascent to Alberguería.

Alberguería

Total distance to Vilar de Barrio: 7.5km
Total ascent: 127m
Total descent: -358m

Vilar de Barrio

Total distance to Xunqueira de Ambía: 14.2km
Total ascent: 253m
Total descent: -379m

2.3km to Bóveda.

800m to Vilar de Gomareite, café.

5.4km to Bobadela.

1.2km to Padroso, Café Bo Camiño, run by the Amigos de Camino, friendly with good food.

Caution is advised on the final descent to Xunqueira de Ambía which can be slippery when wet.

Xunqueira de Ambía

Total distance to Ourense: 22.1km
Total ascent: 291m
Total descent: -699m

The Camino follows the winding road through the village, past the church and then turns right following the signpost for A Pousa. Then after about 40m it veers left down a side road.

3.1km to A Pousa, café, supermarket.

4.3km to Ousende.

800m to Penelas, café, shop.

2.2km to Venda do Rio.

500m to Pereiras, café.

2.2km to A Castellana, café. This is where the suburbs of Ourense begin. At the beginning of the industrial zone are some information boards for pilgrims with maps. From here it's unpleasant suburban walking to the city centre.

2.2km to Reboredo, at the right turn on to Estrada ao Polígono, arrows urge you to go right up a hill on a narrow lane, you can either follow them or continue straight on Estrada ao Polígono. Soon afterwards, at a roundabout, you need to go left on to a minor road, Rúa do Cruceiro, rather than following the dangerous main road.

2.8km to Seixalbo, café.

2.5km to the second roundabout where the Camino veers left down Avenida de Zamora (2nd exit). Follow the Camino for the Xunta Albergue, for Grelo Albergue take Rúa Nosa Señora da Sainza (1st exit).

Ourense

Total distance: 22.5km RIGHT ROUTE to Cea
Total ascent: 694m
Total descent: -300m
Total distance: 21.6km LEFT ROUTE to Cea
Total ascent: 772m
Total descent: -379m

After crossing the bridge, 300m up the hill the Camino divides, the right route turns on to Avenida de Santiago, while the left route continues straight towards the (northern) railway station, visible up the hill. Both routes involve a steep climb to get out of the valley of the River Miño.

RIGHT ROUTE 22.5km

This route can get muddy and flooded after rain.

Turn right on to Avenida de Santiago which you follow for 700m, walking on the RIGHT otherwise you'll miss the waymarkings, until the Camino veers on to a minor road to the right. After a short while you'll cross the main road again and continue steeply uphill. You'll cross another road and then there's a steep 250m climb over 2km.

ATTENTION! Fake yellow arrows will try to lead you towards the village of Cambeo. They're a slightly lighter colour than normal arrows, play close attention, they appear in the woods after the Camino flattens out. If you accidentally end up in Cambeo you'll have to follow the main road left to rejoin the Camino (ignore arrows urging you to continue north!)

12.3km from Ourense to Tamallancos, cafés.

1.1km to Bouzas, café.

2km to Sobreira.

3km to Viduedo, café, shop.

El Alojamiento Pazos is in the village of Pazos. To get there take a right turn on to a small road where the Camino crosses it 600m after Viduedo. From the Camino it's 550m. Doubles 40€, triples 60€. Including breakfast. If you wish to stay two nights they provide a shuttle service to and from Castro Dozón. Tel 619 445 640

2.1km to Casas Novas.

LEFT ROUTE 21.6km

Continue straight up the hill, walking on the right, when you see the railway station (station café opens 05:00) in front of you veer left and pass in front of it on to Rúa Eulogio Gómez Franqueira, from where you basically follow the yellow arrows on the right side of the street, along the side of a busy main road for 2.8km to Quintela, where, opposite Bodegas Arnoya, you take the smaller road which branches right. You follow this for 700m until, outside the showrooms of Gómez y Crespo (farm machinery manufacturing), where the road goes right, you continue straight. You pass under the new train viaduct to the tunnel under the old train tracks, push the button to get pedestrian priority and (with your torch lit, just in case some driver ignores the traffic lights) pass through the tunnel. After the tunnel the climb begins, 290m ascent over 2.2km.

11.6km from Ourense to Cima de Vila and Casa César, an informal café run by César, a retired lorry driver, who serves up delicious home-made cakes and other goodies, including his own wine.

3.9km to Ponte Mandras, café and shop.

3.9km to Casas Novas...

LEFT AND RIGHT ROUTES REJOIN IN CASAS NOVAS

Casas Novas, café (food reported to be worth avoiding). From where it's 2km to Cea.

Cea

Total distance: 8.6km RIGHT ROUTE to Oseira
Total ascent: 223m
Total descent: -101m
Total distance: 14.6km LEFT ROUTE to Castro Dozón
Total ascent: 551m
Total descent: -337m

There are two routes between Cea and Castro Dozón. The right route is the 'official' one and passes through Oseira. The left route is slightly shorter.

RIGHT ROUTE 19km

From Praza Maior go north on to Rúa da Praza Maior and cross the main road on to Rúa de Lodairo (past the Bread Monument) and follow the signs.

6km through open country to Pielas. Café, O Toxo, reported good.

Oseira

Total distance to Castro Dozón: 10.4km
Total ascent: 397m
Total descent: -313m

The walk to Castro Dozón begins with a 1.4km 170m steep climb over rocky ground.

6.4km to A Gouxa, café - not open mornings.

LEFT ROUTE 14.6km

From Praza Maior go north on to Rúa da Praza Maior and then at the main road turn left, walk for 140m then go right following the signs that say Oseira 9, pass alongside the Community Centre / Edificio Multiusos and follow the yellow arrows.

1km to Porto do Souto.

800m to Cotelas, cafés.

In Cotelas, on the Camino on the left, guest house O Refugio with private en suite rooms from 12€, evening meals and breakfast from 07:00. All in a quiet rural location. Tel 988 282 593 or 606 709 167  *** Closed since the beginning of Covid. See our website for updates

2km to Piñor, café, pharmacy.

600m to Fontelo.

500m to Arenteiro, café.

1.2km to O Reino.

8.3km to Castro Dozón. Care is necessary on this part because of faded and missing waymarkings. Be careful not to miss one yellow arrow at a left turn which is on a bollard positioned above most people's normal line of sight.

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN IN CASTRO DOZON

Castro Dozón

Total distance to A Laxe: 19.0km
Total ascent: 375m
Total descent: -638m

4.4km north of Castro Dozón the Camino veers left away from the main road on to a minor one.

1.7km to Puxallos.

6.9km to Estación de Lalín, cafés. Helpful information board on the Camino. A Taberna da Vento, just past the roundabout, first exit, does good food. Also café A Estación, just off the second exit.

4.5km to A Eirexe, café. Then 2.3km to A Laxe.

A Laxe

Total distance to Silleda: 9.7km
Total ascent: 297m
Total descent: -286m

2km to Prado, shop, pharmacy, café on the main road just to the right of the Camino.

4.8km at the beginning of an industrial zone where the Camino goes left, there is a sign pointing to a restaurant 200m off the Camino. It's actually quite a lot further than that and on the main road.

Silleda

Total distance to Bandeira: 7.0km
Total ascent: 82m
Total descent: -213m

Follow the Camino along the main road north through the town to where it veers left on to a path.

Bandeira

Total distance to Leiras: 5.1km
Total ascent: 73m
Total descent: -152m

Use one of the pedestrian crossings in town to cross to the right side of the street, otherwise you'll be crossing at a dangerous bend.

Leiras

Total distance to Ponte Ulla: 8.1km
Total ascent: 152m
Total descent: -365m

4.3km to A Carballeira, café.

Steep descent to Ponte Ulla.

Ponte Ulla

Total distance to Outeiro: 4.3km
Total ascent: 248m
Total descent: -29m

The Camino goes right up some steps just before the underpass.

Outeiro

Total distance to A Susana: 7.9km
Total ascent: 159m
Total descent: -233m

If you feel like treating yourself about 3.4km further along the Camino is a guesthouse which has been recommended, Casa de Casal, double rooms from about 60€. Website www.casadecasal.com Tel 981 503 227

A Susana

Total distance to Santiago de Compostela: 9.1km
Total ascent: 276m
Total descent: -234m

4.5km to Piñeiro, cafés.

1.4km just before the suburb of Angrois you'll pass the bridge over the railway track which was the scene of a train crash on 24 July 2013 in which 80 people died.

3.1km to Santiago Cathedral.

Santiago de Compostela



Copyright © Gerald Kelly 2022. All text and photos.