To Guillena = 22.4km
Total ascent = 215m, descent = -209m
The Vía begins outside the main door of the cathedral, turn right to follow the tram tracks along Avenida de la Constitución, then, at the corner of the cathedral turn left on to Calle García de Vinuesa, then first right on to Calle Jimios. This becomes Calle Zaragoza, which you follow through various twists and turns until it intersects with Puerta de Triana, where you'll see Café de Indias on your left. Now turn left and continue straight to cross Triana Bridge (AKA Puente de Isabel II). Once across the river turn right after the Mercado de Triana along Calle San Jorge and Calle de Castilla (where there's a Día supermarket which opens at 09:30). After about 600m you'll come to a modern square where there's a monument to the Vía de la Plata marking 1000km to Santiago (it's too late now to start wondering if this is a good idea). Walk up the steps to the right which bring you to a main road. Walk anticlockwise around the roundabout, crossing two roads then turning right on to a footpath and left down to a large, run-down carpark where you veer right and then left to cross the narrow bridge across the main branch of the Guadalquivir. This route is marked with yellow arrows but they're easy to miss in the city. Once outside the city they become easier to spot.
3km, just after crossing the narrow bridge over the main branch of the Guadalquivir, you have the option to continue straight to pass through the suburb of Camas, or to go right along the bank of the river (muddy after wet weather), to bypass Camas. Don't let the grimness of this first part get you down, things improve once you're out of the city.
It's 6km to Santiponce, from the point where the routes divide regardless which way you go.
Walk along the banks of the river for about 1km then follow a lane as it veers left. In about 1km you'll pass under an elevated motorway then continue straight under railway tracks and another motorway, then right to join a main road which you follow to the left to a roundabout where you rejoin the left route and turn right towards Santiponce. This route passes through some run down, deserted areas and not everyone will feel comfortable walking it on their own. You may encounter cute donkeys and unfortunately also loose dogs.
2km to Camas from where the routes divide. Shops, cafés, bank, pharmacy. Cafetería Mas on the Camino on the right on Calle José Payán opens at 07:30 every day.
In Camas turn right at the roundabout with the fountain in the middle on to Calle José Payán and follow this until you come to the Church of Santa Maria de Gracia where you take the street to its left, also called Santa Maria de Gracia. From here the Camino continues straight along the side of a busy main road through suburbs and industrial areas, through two roundabouts until after about 3km you come to where the two routes rejoin.
1km to Santiponce. Shops, cafés, bank, pharmacy, hotels.
13km to Guillena from Santiponce.
Continue north along the main road through Santiponce, right at a roundabout and under the motorway and then veer left where the Camino leaves the road and continues (at last) on a quite lane through fields. There's a stream you need to ford which may be difficult after rain. In 2019 the local Amigos put a steel beam across the stream just downstream of the ford however it won't be safe to use if the water is flowing quickly.
Occasionally after prolonged heavy rain this stream can be badly flooded. Happily there is an alternative route which branches left about 500m before the stream (sometimes there is a temporary signpost here but since it's the only possible left turn on a long straight road it would be hard to miss). Follow this road left passing a farmhouse on your right then pass under the motorway, veer left and right to join a main road. Here you turn right and follow the road all the way to Guillena. This detour adds about 3km to the day's walk (better than a muddy drenching or worse!)
Before Guillena the yellow arrows direct you to turn sharp left towards the main road, bringing you past the private albergue, Albergue Luz del Camino. It is possible to go right at this point but it will mean fording another stream which can be difficult and muddy. The description of the route through Guillena is based on the assumption that you turned left.Guillena
To Castilblanco de los Arroyos = 17.7km
Total ascent = 469m, descent = -154m
Leaving town continue past the municipal albergue on Avenida de la Vega and then first right down a road to a ford which you cross (if the water's too high there's a bridge to your left) and then up the slope to the right then veering left, then 1km to a roundabout where you veer left through an industrial area and eventually into open country.
Just before Castilblanco the Camino goes left at a roundabout and follows Avenida España through town. Continue straight at this roundabout for the municipal albergue.Castilblanco de los Arroyos
To Almadén de la Plata = 29.0km
Total ascent = 614m, descent = -490m
You can either follow the Camino or the main road through Castilblanco. The Camino then continues north along the main road towards Almadén. This road isn't usually busy.
Continue on the road (SE-5405) for 16km until you come to a place known as Finca el Berrocal where you will see arrows pointing through a gate on the right into the Parque Natural Sierra Norte. From here it's unpaved paths to Almadén. If the main gate is closed there's another pedestrian gate to the right which may be open (it is not visible from the road). Keep some high-energy food or drink in reserve for the last couple of kilometres where there's a steep hill which ascends abruptly about 100m. Alternatively you can follow the road all the way to Almadén, it's slightly longer but an easier climb.
There are no facilities of any sort on this stage and you should not be wandering out of Castilblanco without enough food and water to see you through to the end.Almadén de la Plata
To El Real de la Jara = 13.9km
Total ascent = 360m, descent = -346m
The Camino is abundantly (if not always clearly) signposted through Almadén with signs and yellow arrows. If in doubt when leaving town aim for the bull ring on the hill to the north, the Camino passes it to the left.El Real de la Jara
To Monesterio = 19.9km
Total ascent = 562m, descent = -277m
1km you cross a stream which marks the border with Extremadura.
12km to the A-66 motorway where there is a 24 hour motorway service station and Hotel Leo which has luxurious singles from €35, café / restaurant, a shop with a good selection of regional products, and an ATM. Tel 924 517 048
Be careful crossing the various roads here. Yellow arrows are a bit scarce, at the roundabout take the road under the motorway signposted Monesterio.Monesterio
To Fuente de Cantos = 21.0km
Total ascent = 328m, descent = -496m
Some misleading waymarkings on this stretch - follow the yellow arrows in preference to any 'official' markings (ie. the metal boxes), however there are places where the yellow arrows are scarce in which case you'll have to rely on the metal boxes. If you can't find any markings remember that you need to head north towards Fuente de Cantos which is intermittently visible on the horizon way before you get there.Fuente de Cantos
To Zafra = 24.6km
Total ascent = 273m, descent = -347m
6km to Calzadilla de los Barros, the Camino passes through the main square, Plaza España, where there is a shop and a bank. A little further on is another shop and a pharmacy. Hostal Los Rodriguez on the main road about 500m off the Camino to the right has rooms from 10€ and a café / restaurant. Tel 924 584 808.
3km after Calzadilla, shortly after reaching the main road, the Camino turns left. There is an alternative left turn about 200m before this one but it is frequently flooded after rain (not shown on the map).
20km to Puebla de Sancho Pérez. Albergue La Hermita is reported closed. Shops, cafés, banks, all on the Camino. However they take their siesta very seriously. Café Abadia, left at the church, is usually open. Hostal el Monte, has been recently recommended, it's on Calle San Antonio, signposted to the right about 500m. Doubles from about 36€. They also have a restaurant which is also reported good. Tel 924 575 581
Between here and Zafra there used to be two routes you could chose from however recently the right route (through the railway station) has been reported closed.
The Camino to Zafra goes along the side of a road for 2km before it forks left for a while and rejoins the main road near Albergue Van Gogh. (You can ignore the left fork and continue on the main road all the way.)Zafra
To Los Santos de Maimona = 4.4km
Total ascent = 122m, descent = -101m
From the Amigos albergue the Camino runs straight up Avenida de la Estación, diagonally across Plaza España then down pedestrianised Calle Sevilla, to the centre of town at Plaza Grande, which it crosses on to Calle Tetuán before turning right on to Calle Conde de la Corte and then veering left and, close to the municipal albergue, right on to Calle Ancha then Calle San Francisco, straight across a roundabout towards a tower, la Torre de San Francisco, and from there into open country.Los Santos de Maimona
To La Almazara = 8.4km
Total ascent = 111m, descent = -160m
The Camino arrives in front of the church on Plaza España, and then passes to its left. Thanks to the local Amigos for their massive yellow arrows!La Almazara
To Villafranca de los Barros = 7.0km
Total ascent = 36m, descent = -105m
To Torremejía = 27.6km
Total ascent = 144m, descent = -255m
Some dead-straight Roman road walking on this part.Torremejía
To Mérida = 15.4km
Total ascent = 95m, descent = -186m
Follow the main road for about 400m north until a sign indicates to join a path on the right. From here it's a more-or-less straight run into Mérida.Mérida
To El Carrascalejo = 13.8km
Total ascent = 215m, descent = -134m
6km to Proserpina, cafés. Pass straight through a roundabout and take a left fork signposted as a cul-de-sac. Then follow a footpath which skirts the reservoir until it rejoins the road and continues north.
After Proserpina, follow a small road for about 4km until just before it turns right over a bridge the Camino goes left on to a sandy lane, clearly marked with yellow arrows on a tree. It then continues on unpaved lanes until El Carrascalejo.El Carrascalejo
To Aljucén = 2.6km
Total ascent = 40m, descent = -65m
To Alcuéscar = 19.4km
Total ascent = 304m, descent = -120m
The Camino leaves town in either direction on the main street.
16km turnoff right to the Basilica de Santa Lucía del Trampal
200m past the turnoff for the Basilica: turnoff for Albergue Turistico Los Olivos. Misleading signposting at this junction! When you see a sign pointing left towards Puerto de la Herrerias, at this point the Camino (and direct route to Alcuéscar) goes RIGHT. From here it's 3km to Alcuéscar.Alcuéscar
To Aldea del Cano = 15.1km
Total ascent = 69m, descent = -126m
The Camino turns left just after the monastery.
8km to Casas de Don Antonio, the Camino bypasses the village. There's a café in the Centro Social (behind the ayuntamiento) which also sells bread and basic groceries, and a pharmacy nearby.
7km to Aldea del Cano, the Camino bypasses the village which is a little to the right.Aldea del Cano
To Valdesalor = 11.5km
Total ascent = 96m, descent = -101m
To Cáceres = 11.7km
Total ascent = 169m, descent = -113m
From Valdesalor continue north on the right side of the main road. Waymarking isn't great here but basically, the Camino meanders parallel to this road for about 5km then it heads off into open country before arriving into the suburbs of Cáceres.Cáceres
To Casar de Cáceres = 11.4km
Total ascent = 107m, descent = -185m
The Camino turns right at Plaza San Francisco and enters the walled old city from the east. It turns right at the cathedral and leaves the old city on to Plazuela de Santiago. At Iglesia de Santiago, there it veers left and continues north out of the city along Calle de Zapataría, passing to the left of the bullring, from where you can easily pick up the waymarkings.
Between here and Casar de Cáceres the Camino runs parallel to a busy main road, parts of which are on the hard shoulder - dangerous in poor visibility.Casar de Cáceres
To Embalse de Alcántara = 21.6km
Total ascent = 273m, descent = -408m
Continue north along the main street to leave town. 2km out, where there's a small round building with a pointed roof, take the right fork here.
The footbridge for pilgrims over the AVE tracks was completed in 2018 so the Camino has returned to its old route down to the road beside the reservoir.
After crossing the second road bridge a footpath leads to the right, up the hill. You can go this way if you're continuing to Cañaveral. If you want to go to the albergue at Embalse de Alcántara stay on the road.Embalse de Alcántara
To Cañaveral = 11.5km
Total ascent = 248m, descent = -125m
From Embalse you can either follow the official Camino on a track up the hill away from the road or you can also continue on the road (N-630) all the way to Cañaveral (slightly shorter).Cañaveral
To Grimaldo (turnoff for) = 8.0km
Total ascent = 218m, descent = -148m
There is some confusion about the route immediately after Cañaveral. Following the main road north there are several smaller roads and lanes which you can take to the left. Waymarkings are unclear or missing. Whichever one you take it should ascend gently at first and then more steeply before descending to a road which you cross and veer right to pass through the car park of a strip joint (El Puerto, does not give pilgrim discounts and in any case is closed during daylight hours) veering left to follow the yellow arrows on a path through a wood. There are signs for other hiking routes around here 'Caminos Naturales' - do not be tempted to follow them!
Over the following stages there are three villages which are described as (turnoff for). These are villages which have a pilgrim albergue but which are not on the actual route of the Camino. The distances show on the place button is the distance to the point on the Camino where you turn off the Camino to get to the village in question, not the actual distance to the village. The distance of the village from the Camino is given in the route description just before its place button, it's never very far. Getting back to the Camino from one of these villages is described on the detailed information page for the village.
The village of Grimaldo is 650m off the Camino to the right at an abundantly signposted junction.Grimaldo (turnoff for)
To Ríolobos (turnoff for) = 7.8km
Total ascent = 110m, descent = -110m
The village of Ríolobos is 4km off the Camino. The place where your turn off is clearly signposted.Ríolobos (turnoff for)
To San Gil (turnoff for) = 9.7km
Total ascent = 91m, descent = -247m
4km after the turnoff for Ríolobos you cross a canal and then turn right on to a road which you briefly follow until the Camino goes left on to a lane. From there it's about 6km to Galisteo.
The village of San Gil is 2km off the Camino. From there you can continue on an alternative route to Carcaboso completely bypassing Galisteo. (Described in the entry to San Gil)San Gil (turnoff for)
RIGHT to Carcaboso = 10.8km
Total ascent = 88m, descent = -111m
LEFT to Galisteo = 1.7km
Total ascent = 41m, descent = -26m
To Carcaboso = 11.0km
Total ascent = 107m, descent = -118m
From Cafétería Las Picotas turn left and walk up the hill towards the walled town and continue walking with the town walls to your right to the other side of the old town from where you should be able to pick up the waymarkings which lead steeply downhill and across an old bridge over the Río Jerte, straight through a roundabout, under the motorway and then right at another roundabout to follow the paved road north towards Carcaboso.
6km Aldehuala del Jerte. Cafés.Carcaboso
To Aldeanueva del Camino = 39.4km
Total ascent = 678m, descent = -423m
Leaving the village there's a poorly waymarked fork where you need to go right. About 500m further on where, for some reason, there's a sign on a post that says Bombay, here the Camino divides for a short while. The left route is shorter.
Since the pilgrim albergue in Oliva de Placencia closed we are left with a 39.4km stretch with no pilgrim accommodation. However, there are several options for breaking up this stage by staying in alternative accommodation off the Camino. Details are given below.
12km from Carcaboso you come to a house beside a road known as Dehesa Ventaquemada, this is the turnoff for the village of Oliva de Placencia. Continue straight to arrive at the ruins of the Roman city of Cáparra in 6km, or turn right and walk 6km off the Camino, along a quiet road, to Oliva de Plasencia where Vía Cáparra Superior has single rooms from about 36€. Website www.albergueviacaparra.com Tel 620 007 490 They may collect from Ventaquemada or Cáparra. Oliva has cafés and a shop which is opposite the Ayuntamiento, limited opening hours. If you sleep in Oliva you can take a signposted route directly to Cáparra in 6km. Visiting Oliva means 6km of extra walking.
6km to Cáparra Roman City. At the visitors centre in Cáparra there are public toilets and vending machines for snacks and drinks (you will need coins and the building isn't always open). The visitors centre is about 300m to the right of the arch, turn right at the arch itself or shortly after it.
Hostal El Avión in Villar de Plasencia, has singles from 19€, doubles from 30€. It's 5km from Cáparra along a quiet road (CC-11.2). They may also provide a pick-up service from Cáparra. Tel 652 779 448. To get back to the Camino from here walk north along the N-630 until you come to Hostal Asutrias, from there follow the instructions below.
On the route after Cáparra there are several rivers which you cross using stepping-stones and which may be extremely difficult to cross during periods of wet weather. Please ask advice locally and don't attempt dangerous river crossings - especially if you're on your own. If it has been raining a lot your best bet may be to follow the minor road north from Oliva de Plasencia until it joins the N-630 near Villar de Plasencia and then follow that north towards Hostal Asturias..
Hostal Asturias is 2km off the Camino from a turnoff 8km after Cáparra where the Camino runs along the side of a small road you'll see yellow writing pointing right. The hostal is just on the other side of the motorway. They have nice single rooms from about 19€, a café and a good restaurant with charcoal grill. They may pick up from Cáparra on request. Tel 927 477 057. To get back to the Camino from here walk north along the N-630 for about 1km until blue arrows point you on to an unpaved road to the right. This will bring you back to the Camino before Aldeanueva.
Meanwhile, back on the Camino, after the turnoff for Hostal Asturias, in 4km you will pass underneath the motorway then immediately see signs pointing left to ford a river. This river is often too big to ford, in which case you should cross the river on the bridge on your right and continue on the road until you rejoin the Camino about 500m further on. You will pass under the motorway three more times before Aldeaneuva.
At the sign which points right towards Via Pecuaria, if you wish you can continue straight and walk along the road to Aldeanueva. Otherwise you'll go right and follow a slightly longer route through open countryside to Aldeanueva.Aldeanueva del Camino
To Baños de Montemayor = 9.6km
Total ascent = 234m, descent = -47m
Follow the Camino north to where it joins the main road, at a roundabout (motorway service station café which opens early, to your left), cross over the motorway and veer left. The Camino to Baños is along the side of the road, although there are some places where you can walk a little off the road. About 2km out there's a bollard which urges you to veer right on to a lane, ignore it and stay on the road.
5km café.Baños de Montemayor
To Puente de Béjar = 3.2km
Total ascent = 199m, descent = -18m
Turn sharp left after the Ayuntamiento and follow the Camino as it winds its way through the village before joining the Roman road up the side of the valley towards the pass.
Ascent 200m in 3km to Puerto de Béjar. Entering Castilla y León. Follow the road, with some small deviations, to...
1km to Peñacaballera, café and a petrol station with a small shop.
Shortly after the petrol station the Camino turns left away from the road. The pilgrim albergue at Puente de Béjar is to the right at this point.Puente de Béjar
To Calzada de Béjar = 9.4km
Total ascent = 207m, descent = -312m
Beautiful walking through rolling hills to...Calzada de Béjar
To Valverde de Valdelacasa = 8.7km
Total ascent = 74m, descent = -64m
RIGHT to Fuenterroble de Salvatierra = 11.7km
Total ascent = 250m, descent = -98m
LEFT to Fuenterroble de Salvatierra = 12.0km
Total ascent = 254m, descent = -103m
4km to Valdecasa, café which does food in the Centro de Día, turn right at the main road, it's about 300m on the right. About 2km after Valdecasa there is a junction with a lot of confusing yellow arrows. Basically you have two options, either continue on the road or take the lane which goes left at a right angle, this seems to be the 'official' Camino. Both routes bring you to Fuenteroble in approximately the same distance.Fuenterroble de Salvatierra
RIGHT to Pedrosillo de los Aires = 18.4km
Total ascent = 271m, descent = -265m
LEFT to San Pedro de Rozados = 28.8km
Total ascent = 454m, descent = -430m
There are two possible routes on this stage which divide about 12km after Fuenterroble, at a gate / cattle grid with a sign which says Dueña de Abajo.
To Morille = 11.6km
Total ascent = 173m, descent = -196m
5km to Monterrubio de la Sierra, unusual café, on the left.
7km to Morille - see below.
From where the routes divide walk uphill along an unpaved path, passing to the right of the windmills on the top of Pico de la Dueña (1,145m, highest point on the Camino so far). Then steeply downhill on another rough path before joining a road.
San Pedro de Rozados is a little off the Camino to the left. Follow the road if you wish to continue to Morille.San Pedro de Rozados
To Morille = 4.1km
Total ascent = 19m, descent = -62m
To Salamanca = 19.6km
Total ascent = 235m, descent = -373m
10km to Miranda de Azán, which is about 300m to the right of the Camino. Cafés which all open about 10:00. However, no pilgrim albergue (despite the rumours!)
9km to Salamanca.
Approaching the city you'll pass under a road on to an urban street, past a roundabout and into a park where you turn right and walk with a stream on your left. You will see a yellow arrow telling you to cross a footbridge to the right, ignore it and continue to follow other yellow arrows with the stream on your left through a tunnel under a railway line, past a petrol station and straight along a street until you see the Roman bridge over the river Duero which you'll cross to the city proper.
Once over the bridge, cross the road and continue right uphill to the point where the right turn to the municipal albergue is indicated with a metal Camino sign set into the ground with the letter 'A' for 'Albergue'.Salamanca
To Calzada de Valdunciel = 16.4km
Total ascent = 202m, descent = -200m
Leaving Salamanca there are almost no waymarkings of any description (October 2019). Luckily it's mostly straight all the way. From Plaza Mayor continue north along Calle de Zamora, then straight over a roundabout on to Paseo Torres Vilarroel, continuing straight to another roundabout where you veer left on to Avenida de Borgoña, then straight through another roundabout by a large Carrefour supermarket. Here the Camino crosses to the right side of the road and (just when you've abandoned all hope) Camino waymarkings appear again!
7km to Aldeaseca de la Almuña, shops, cafés. The Camino crosses to the right side of the main road just after the village and then crosses it again to arrive to...
5km to Castellanos de Villiquera, café, shop by the church, pharmacy.Calzada de Valdunciel
To Huelmos = 7.0km
Total ascent = 88m, descent = -64m
5km cross under the motorway. After rain it may be necessary to follow a short detour to avoid getting your feet wet. It's clearly waymarked.Huelmos
To El Cubo de Tierra del Vino = 13.2km
Total ascent = 163m, descent = -146m
To Villanueva de Campeán = 13.7km
Total ascent = 129m, descent = -208m
Continue down El Cubo's main street, veer right at the church, cross the river and then take a left.Villanueva de Campeán
To Zamora = 18.3km
Total ascent = 126m, descent = -249m
4km to San Marcial, which is 1km off the Camino, straight ahead where the Camino turns sharp right. Bar el Cruce, on the main road does food, opens 09:00 or 09:30 Sundays. Also a small supermarket. From there you can rejoin the Camino by following the main road north for about 2km.Zamora
To Montamarta = 18.8km
Total ascent = 231m, descent = -178m
The Camino turns left and crosses Plaza Mayor diagonally and then goes down Calle de las Costanillas, veering left at the bottom on to Calle de la Feria, and continues straight across a roundabout. From there it's straight ahead on to Calle Morana, veering left on to Carretera Hiniesta. Then continue straight through another roundabout and walk on the right until the Camino leaves the road and continues on a lane. NB. Another Camino goes west from here towards Portugal, new signposting marks the spot where the paths divide, be careful not to get the routes confused. Just before Roales del Pan there is a place where one sign tells you to go straight and another says right, go RIGHT!
7km to Roales del Pan, cafés, shop follow the signs for Bar T&B. Municipal albergue closed, no plans to reopen it. After Roales you will begin to encounter the northern AVE route. A bridge has been built over the new tracks so no special detours are needed.Montamarta
To Fontanillas de Castro = 12.6km
Total ascent = 153m, descent = -125m
When the reservoir is in flood you'll have to cross the road bridge and turn left after about 300m towards the church.
4km at this point the route of the Camino has been changed. Instead of going straight ahead it turns right and crosses the motorway and then continues north. Continue straight here if you wish to follow the N-631 which will bring you directly to Tábara in approximately 25km, bypassing Riego and Granja. It's reported to be road-side walking but with light traffic and through pretty countryside.Fontanillas de Castro
To Riego del Camino = 3.7km
Total ascent = 23m, descent = -37m
Café about 400m off the Camino, signposted before the village to the right. At the same point continue straight for the village or left for the Camino.Riego del Camino
To Granja de Moreruela = 6.7km
Total ascent = 60m, descent = -54m
To Faramontanos de Tábara = 18.2km
Total ascent = 265m, descent = -266m
Behind the church is a sign which marks the point where the Camino Sanabrés divides left from the Vía de la Plata to follow a course through southern Galicia to Santiago. The Vía de la Plata continues north to Astorga and beyond.
7km from Granja you will cross a bridge called Puente Quintos over the river Esla. Immediately after the bridge there are two possible ways to go (although the right / road route is not an 'official' variant). The right route follows the road part of the way to Faramontanos de Tábara and the left route follows the river for about 1km before turning right just before the brow of a hill (where there is a good view of the river to the south) and passing to the left of a ruined farmhouse and then continuing on unpaved roads to Tábara (care required).Faramontanos de Tábara
To Tábara = 7.1km
Total ascent = 51m, descent = -25m
Approaching and leaving Tábara you will encounter the AVE (high-speed train) tracks however this does not interfere with the Camino route.
When you arrive in Tábara you'll see arrows pointing right and the church up to your left. The arrows pointing right are the Camino leaving town. If you want to go to the village, head for the church.Tábara
RIGHT to Santa Marta de Tera = 23.0km
Total ascent = 266m, descent = -266m
LEFT to Villanueva de las Peras = 15.8km
Total ascent = 193m, descent = -182m
To rejoin the Camino walk back the way you came into town, passing to the left of the tower. There's an alternative route back to the Camino from the municipal albergue which is slightly shorter, ask the hospitalero.
10km after Tábara you have the choice of two routes. The right route goes through Bercianos de Valverde. The left route goes through Villanueva de las Peras. Both routes are almost exactly the same length.
4km to Bercianos de Valverde from the point where the routes divide, no facilities. From there to Santa Croya de Tera is 9km.
4km to Villanueva de las Peras from the point where the routes divide.Villanueva de las Peras
To Santa Marta de Tera = 9.5km
Total ascent = 86m, descent = -97m
9km to Santa Croya de Tera from Villanueva de las Peras.
Santa Croya de Tera, shops and a café. Sadly Casa Anita has closed.Santa Marta de Tera
To Calzadilla de Tera = 11.1km
Total ascent = 82m, descent = -64m
The Camino goes immediately left after crossing the bridge (although in October 2019 the yellow arrows had been repainted to send pilgrims through the village).
6km after Santa Marta the Camino comes to a main road at a gravel quarry. Turn left here and cross the bridge over the Río Tera. The Camino to Calzadilla continues to the right after the bridge. Shortly before Calzadilla there is a set of confusing arrows pointing to the right. Ignore them and continue straight over the canal until you reach a paved road.Calzadilla de Tera
To Olleros de Tera = 1.9km
Total ascent = 12m, descent = -17m
Be careful because there is a lot of confusing waymarking in this area. You should follow a canal to Olleros. Whichever arrows you find in Calzadilla should being you to this canal.Olleros de Tera
To Villar de Farfón = 7.9km
Total ascent = 122m, descent = -64m
Continue through the village, cross a main road on to another road, pass to the left of a concrete structure and walk towards a church in the distance. From this church you'll walk through open country for about 2km before arriving at a dam, Embalse de Agavanzal. Approaching the dam there is a sign on the road indicating bicycles to go left (BICIS), this is a slightly easier but longer alternative to the walking route which involves a bit of scrambling around in the mud after wet weather.
Cross the dam and turn immediately left.Villar de Farfón
To Rionegro del Puente = 6.1km
Total ascent = 77m, descent = -82m
To Mombuey = 9.0km
Total ascent = 132m, descent = -31m
4km, roadside café, El Empalme, to the left of the Camino 100m, open from 09:00, closed Mondays.Mombuey
To Entrepeñas = 14.0km
Total ascent = 196m, descent = -186m
After Mombuey the Camino follows close to the main road for about 2km before crossing the motorway. Watch out for rabbits and deer.
5km to Valdemerilla.
3km to Cernadilla. This municipal albergue is reported to be closed.
2km to San Salvador de Palazuelo. This municipal albergue is reported to be closed.Entrepeñas
To Asturianos = 3.0km
Total ascent = 70m, descent = -11m
Be careful not to miss the left turn leaving Entrepeñas.Asturianos
To Puebla de Sanabria = 14.5km
Total ascent = 199m, descent = -261m
Off-road sections between Asturianos and Puebla de Sanabria may be muddy and flooded after rain.
3km to Palacios de Sanabria, cafés, small shop and pharmacy. Bar Mirador, on the main road, is usually open for breakfast. To rejoin the Camino cross the main road from Bar Mirador and veer left uphill.
3km to Remesal.
3km to Otero de Sanabria.
2km to Triufé.
4km to...Puebla de Sanabria
To Requejo de Sanabria = 12.3km
Total ascent = 214m, descent = -131m
The Camino through Puebla follows the main road and turns right immediately after crossing the bridge. Follow this road around the old town until it crosses another bridge, now continue straight for 1km until the Camino turns abruptly left and continues on a track beside a river. NOTE: following the road (N-525) is a good alternative, the official Camino is poorly waymarked and may be flooded after rain.
10km to Terroso. This village lies on a long (but scenic) meander which can be avoided by following the road.Requejo de Sanabria
To Lubián = 16.8km
Total ascent = 536m, descent = -497m
AVE works are still causing disruptions on this stretch and the traditional route of the Camino is only passable with great difficulty because many of the waymarkings have been obliterated by the construction works. A detour is signposted shortly after Requejo and following it is advisable. This detour directs pilgrims to follow the old main road (N-525) until a point 7km after Requejo where a sign indicates to follow a path to the left of the road. This path is part of the traditional route. It goes underneath the old road and the motorway and then back again, then zigzags several times before reaching the pass at A Canda after about 2km, where there is a monument. The altitude here is 1,365m and it is the highest point of the Camino Sanabrés and the Vía de la Plata. From here continue downhill to cross the motorway again over a bridge. Then follow the road into Padornelo...
2km to Padornelo from the pass, where there is a café, Bar Silva. A short distance after the village Hotel Padornelo has a café and a good restaurant and single rooms from 25€. Tel 980 567 939 Website www.hotelpadornelo.com
After Padornelo there's another detour, Desvio Provisional, which directs you left to cross the motorway and walk along a road for a short while before, just beyond three concrete silos, you veer left and cross under the motorway on to a path which runs parallel to it until it descends into the valley and finally climbs to Lubián.
6km to LubiánLubián
To A Gudiña = 24.4km
Total ascent = 741m, descent = -791m
From the turnoff to the Santuario de La Tuiza (signposted), follow the paved road down to the bridge, past the recreation / sports area, and pass under the motorway. The Camino continues past the Sanctuary and then the 300m climb to Portela de la Canda begins. Parts of this stretch can be flooded after rain. It is possible to walk on the road: leaving Lubián follow the ZA-106 west for about 9km until it intersects with the Camino a few hundred metres after where the motorway enters a tunnel.
7km from Lubián to the pass at altitude 1,260m.
Welcome to Galicia!
2km from the pass to A Canda.
3km to Vilavella which has two cafés, both a little off the Camino, the food in Bar ON has been recommended. Hostal Porta Galega is about 500m off the Camino to the right, beside the main road. They have singles full pension from 40€. Website www.hostalportagalega.es Tel 988 425 593
3km to O Pereiro.
5km to O Cañizo.
4km to...A Gudiña
To Campobecerros = 20.2km
Total ascent = 516m, descent = -597m
The Camino veers right on to Rúa Maior where you turn off for the Xunta albergue. After about 200m is the divide for the Laza and Verín routes. Only the Laza route is described here. This route is entirely road with nice scenery.
In October 2019 the route through Campobecerros was open with no problems due to AVE works. However, the AVE works near Campobecerros are extensive and this situation may change at short notice. Please heed any advice from reliable sources.
8km to A Venda Da Teresa.
2km to A Venda Da Capela.
3km to A Venda do Bolaño.
A steep descent to...Campobecerros
To Laza = 14.5km
Total ascent = 367m, descent = -789m
3km to Portocamba.
5km to As Eiras, where the local Amigos del Camino run a small help-yourself outdoor café.
6km and spectacular scenery, to...Laza
To Alberguería = 12.0km
Total ascent = 563m, descent = -142m
Follow the main road north west.
3km to Soutelo Verde
3km to Tamicelas. Then a steep 400m ascent to...Alberguería
To Vilar de Barrio = 7.5km
Total ascent = 127m, descent = -358m
To Xunqueira de Ambía = 13.6km
Total ascent = 242m, descent = -357m
2km to Bóveda.
1km to Vilar de Gomareite, café.
6km to Padroso, Café Bo Camiño, run by the Amigos de Camino, friendly with good food.
Caution is advised on the final descent to Xunqueira de Ambía which can be slippery when wet.Xunqueira de Ambía
To Ourense / Orense = 22.7km
Total ascent = 303m, descent = -721m
The Camino follows the winding road through the village, past the church and then turns right following the signpost for A Pousa. Then after about 40m it veers left down a side road.
3km to A Pousa, café, supermarket.
5km to Ousende.
1km to Penelas, café, shop.
2kms to Venda do Rio.
1km to Pereiras, café.
2km to A Castellana, where the suburbs of Ourense begin, café. At the beginning of the industrial zone are some information boards for pilgrims with maps. From here it's unpleasant suburban walking to the city centre.
2km to Reboredo, at the right turn on to Estrada ao Polígono, arrows urge you to go right up a hill on a narrow lane, you can either follow them or continue straight on Estrada ao Polígono. Soon afterwards, at a roundabout, you need to go left on to a minor road, Rúa do Cruceiro, rather than following the dangerous main road.
3km to Seixalbo, café.
2km to the roundabout at the beginning of Ourense city centre, from here Grelo Albergue is straight on and the new Xunta Albergue is to the left.Ourense
RIGHT to Cea = 22.5km
Total ascent = 696m, descent = -300m
LEFT to Cea = 21.7km
Total ascent = 773m, descent = -380m
After crossing the bridge, 300m up the hill the Camino divides, the right route turns on to Avenida de Santiago, while the left route continues straight towards the (northern) railway station, visible up the hill. Both routes involve a steep climb to get out of the valley of the River Miño.
This route can get muddy and flooded after rain.
Turn right on to Avenida de Santiago which you follow for about 1km, walking on the RIGHT otherwise you'll miss the waymarkings, until the Camino veers on to a minor road to the right. After a short while you'll cross the main road again and continue steeply uphill. You'll cross another road and then there's a long, steep climb to...
4km to Cudeiro. After this the Camino follows a path through a forest.
ATTENTION! Fake yellow arrows will try to lead you towards the village of Cambeo. They're a slightly lighter colour than normal arrows, play close attention, they appear in the woods about 5km after Cudeiro. If you end up in Cambeo you'll have to follow the main road left to rejoin the Camino (ignore arrows urging you to continue north!)
8km to Tamallancos, cafés.
1km to Bouzas, café.
2km to Sobreira.
3km to Viduedo, café, shop.
2km to Casas Novas...
Continue straight up the hill, walking on the right, when you see the railway station (station café opens 05:00) in front of you veer left and pass in front of it on to Rúa Eulogio Gómez Franqueira, from where you basically follow the yellow arrows on the right side of the street, along the side of a busy main road to...
4km to Quintela, where, opposite Bodegas Arnoya, you take the smaller road which branches right. You follow this for about 700m until, outside the showrooms of Gómez y Crespo (farm machinery manufacturing), where the road goes right, you continue straight. You pass under the new train viaduct to the tunnel under the old train tracks, push the button to get pedestrian priority and (with your torch lit, just in case some driver ignores the traffic lights) pass through the tunnel to begin a 200m climb.
7km to Casa César, an informal café run by César, a retired lorry driver, who serves up delicious home-made cakes and other goodies, including his own wine.
4km to Ponte Mandras, café and shop.
4km to Casas Novas...
Casas Novas, café (food reported to be worth avoiding). From where it's 2km to Cea.Cea
RIGHT to Oseira = 8.6km
Total ascent = 224m, descent = -101m
LEFT to Castro Dozón = 14.6km
Total ascent = 551m, descent = -337m
There are two routes between Cea and Castro Dozón. The right route is the 'official' one and passes through Oseira. The left route is slightly shorter.
From Praza Maior go north on to Rúa da Praza Maior and cross the main road on to Rúa de Lodairo (past the Bread Monument) and follow the signs.
7km through open country to Pielas. New café, O Toxo, reported good.Oseira
To Castro Dozón = 10.4km
Total ascent = 402m, descent = -313m
The walk to Castro Dozón begins with a 2km steep climb over rocky ground.
7km to A Gouxa, café - not open mornings.
From Praza Maior go north on to Rúa da Praza Maior and then at the main road turn left, walk for about 110m then go right following the signs that say Oseira 9, pass alongside the Community Centre / Edificio Multiusos and follow the yellow arrows.
1km to Porto do Souto.
1km to Cotelas, cafés. Guest house called O Refugio with private en suite rooms from 12€, evening meals and breakfast from 07:00. All in a quiet rural location. Tel 988 282 593 or 606 709 167
2km to Piñor, café, pharmacy.
1km to Fontelo.
1km to Arenteiro, café.
1km to O Reino.
8km to Castro Dozón. Care is necessary on this part because of faded and missing waymarkings. Be careful not to miss one yellow arrow at a left turn which is on a bollard positioned above most people's normal line of sight.
To A Laxe / Bendoiro = 19.0km
Total ascent = 375m, descent = -640m
4km north of Castro Dozón the Camino veers left away from the main road on to a minor one.
2km to Puxallos.
7km to Estación de Lalín, cafés. Helpful information board on the Camino. A Taberna da Vento, just past the roundabout, first exit, does good food. Also café A Estación, just off the second exit.
4km to A Eirexe, café. Then a little over 1km to...A Laxe
To Silleda = 9.7km
Total ascent = 297m, descent = -286m
2km to Prado, shop, pharmacy, café on the main road just to the right of the Camino.
5km at the beginning of an industrial zone where the Camino goes left, there is a sign pointing to a restaurant 200m off the Camino. It's actually quite a lot further than that and on the main road.Silleda
To Bandeira = 7.0km
Total ascent = 82m, descent = -213m
Follow the Camino along the main road north through the town to where it veers left on to a path.Bandeira
To Leiras = 5.1km
Total ascent = 73m, descent = -152m
Use one of the pedestrian crossings in town to cross to the right side of the street, otherwise you'll be crossing at a dangerous bend.Leiras
To Ponte Ulla = 8.1km
Total ascent = 152m, descent = -365m
4km to A Carballeira, café.
Steep descent to...Ponte Ulla
To Outeiro = 4.3km
Total ascent = 253m, descent = -29m
The Camino goes right up some steps just before the underpass.Outeiro
To A Susana = 6.3km
Total ascent = 121m, descent = -214m
To Santiago de Compostela = 10.6km
Total ascent = 315m, descent = -253m
4km to O Pineiro da Igrexe, cafés.
2km just before the suburb of Angrois you'll pass the bridge over the railway track which was the scene of a train crash on 24 July 2013 in which 80 people died.
3km to Santiago.Santiago de Compostela
Copyright © Gerald Kelly 2021. All text and photos.